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01-11-02, 04:10
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#1 (permalink)
| | Registered User
nicksr is offline
Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: North Carolina Posts: 39 | Too Clay or not too clay, that is the question! Ok, I am getting ready to do my Land Cruiser top to bottom this weekend.
I did a little experimenting on the hood to see what was going to be needed.
My question is this.
I am not all that familiar with claying a car. I did the hood yesterday and it was smooth as silk. However, there was still some etching left from some long ago Bird Turd. Claying didnt take this off.
Along with that, polishing alone with the PC was not enough to take off the scratches, so today I tried some 3m Perfect-It fine cut and SMR. That took care of the scratches, but not the etching. I'm probably just going to have to live with the etching.
Anyways, to make a long story a little bit longer.
If I am going to compound the car anyway, do I need to Clay it too? Wont the compound take off everything that the clay would anyway, if not more?
Finally, if someone could post a link to some good wet sanding instructions. I dont know if I am going to try it or not, but I have some scratches that will need filling and if I can find one in an inconspicuous place, I might give it a shot since I am going to compound anyway.
Going to be a long day and that is just one of the cars. Sheesh
Might have to think twice about buying a used car ever again! | |
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01-11-02, 04:26
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#2 (permalink)
| | Senior Moderator
Brad B. is offline
Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: St. Louis Posts: 3,093 | If you do a "real good job" of compounding then normally clay will not be needed. However, claying is so fast and easy I do it before compounding just to pull the rough stuff out and make the compounding easier.
You can always do a "feel" test. Compund a section then clay half of it. Let your fingers decide. | |
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01-11-02, 05:53
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#3 (permalink)
| | Registered User
jazzyjack is offline
Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 238 | I agree with Brad on this. One of the things that is no fun at all is that if the surface is full of contamination the compound that you use can pool at these areas making it harder to remove with a towel or buffing pad.
When in doubt...clay first. You can do it during your prep wash before doing any compounding.
__________________
2001 BMW 330i Steel Grey Metallic (Baby Bimmer)
1997 Dark Blue Toyota 4Runner (Wifes wheels)
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01-12-02, 10:45
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#4 (permalink)
| | Registered User
DaVW is offline
Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Bay Area California Posts: 35 | CLAY? With the exception of this forum of which I am rather new, may I ask in all humbleness what is clay? Please explain what it is, what it does, what it's made out of, how you use, etc... Thanks.  | |
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01-12-02, 11:01
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#5 (permalink)
| | Banned
BW is offline
Join Date: May 2001 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,051 | I'd check out the Details, Details, Details part of the Autopia Carport. They have an article there called Cleaning with Clay.
Welcome to the forum! | |
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01-12-02, 11:07
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#6 (permalink)
| | Registered User
DaVW is offline
Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Bay Area California Posts: 35 | That about covered all I needed to know! Thanks. | |
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01-12-02, 03:02
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#7 (permalink)
| | Help-I Can't Stop Waxing!
carguy is offline
Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 751 | I would agree, and add that some of the "stuff" adhered to your paint may or may not abrade down all that easily under compound. By contrast to the amount of clearcoat you're removing, that bump looks like Mt. Everest. The foam pad or towel will ride right up and over the little dots, leaving a little unpolished "shadow" ring around them. You can see this after applying wax over these little guys, for example.
So I think if you have above-surface contaminants, you should absolutely clay as the first step. That will ensure that your compounding steps get to entire surface evenly. | |
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