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Old 03-17-05, 10:38   #1 (permalink)
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Wax, sealant, cure time

Recently I detail 2 cars with sealant top with wax without letting the sealant to cure (24 hours+). What could happen? Am I going to lose the wet look sooner than wax by itself? I am not concern about long long durability. The main reason to mix with sealant and wax is for special effect such as wetter, deeper, shinner, pop looks. As long as the combo can last as long as wax by itself. I am happy. Question: If I don't have time to allow the sealant to cure and add wax on top within an hour, the finish can last at least like the wax, less than wax or longer than wax? What's the disadvanture not letting the sealant to cure before wax? Durability? all the layers will disappear at the next wash or rain? chemical reaction and lead to smoking?? joke aside what's wrong? Thanks.

Last edited by opass : 03-17-05 at 11:05.
 
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Old 03-17-05, 10:59   #2 (permalink)
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You will probably lose some of the sealant's durability but if you like the look and don't mind adding another coat of wax a bit sooner, no harm done.
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Old 03-17-05, 11:03   #3 (permalink)
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I'd say that the biggest disadvantage to not letting the sealant cure before topping it would be longevity. If you don't give the sealant enough time to cure it will not bond correctly to the paint and just wear off faster. You will still probably get the look you are after, or at least most of it, if you top it right away but will only get the longevity of the very last step. So if your last step is a carnauba, then you will probably only get the protection of the carnauba and not the much longer protection of a fully cured sealant under a carnauba.

I like to use sealants and look at the carnauba topper as a protectant specifically for my sealant, and just reapply as needed. You know, you don't HAVE to top your sealant 24, 48, or even 72 hours later. I've waited as long as two weeks to top PB's EX with Souveran and the added gloss of Souveran on top of EX was *still* extremely apparent. I'd say to try to wait the 24 hour minimum, even if it means you won't top it for a week or two later.
 
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Old 03-17-05, 11:49   #4 (permalink)
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To add to what Scottwax said..

From my understanding, most sealants need to
"air" cure. It is similar to the curing of freshly painted
cars, without the long wait before waxing. The cure time
is needed to allow the solvents in the liquid form to be
released once applied to a panel. Allowing the sealant to
"outgas", helps it to properly bond to the paint, leaving
behind a coat that dries hard, and is durable. Applying
wax over a fresh coat of sealant can negate this, resulting
in a bond that is short lived.

It is best to follow the instructions for application of
these products. You'll get much better results.
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Old 03-18-05, 07:41   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDookie
[BYou know, you don't HAVE to top your sealant 24, 48, or even 72 hours later. I've waited as long as two weeks to top PB's EX with Souveran and the added gloss of Souveran on top of EX was *still* extremely apparent. I'd say to try to wait the 24 hour minimum, even if it means you won't top it for a week or two later. [/b]
I see. Somehow I am not aware and forget that I am pushing the detail process way to fast. This is very helpful.
 
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Old 03-18-05, 07:51   #6 (permalink)
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The most extreme side-effect of not allowing a sealant to properly bond and cure before applying a carnauba topper is the complete removal of the sealant. Most carnuabas have a solvent carrier. This solvent will basically wipe-off the partially bonded-zero cured sealant. In short, you are just seeing the carnuaba.
As stated above, allow a sealant to cure as long as possible prior to topping with anything, including itself unless it has an accelerator that allows multiple coats in 1 day (i.e. ZFX). actually longer than 24hrs is better. Most sealant do not reach their pinnacle of appearance glory until completely cured. This process may take a week. That is why many state that their sealant treated vehicle actually looks better after a few day.
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Old 03-18-05, 08:18   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by blkZ28Conv
The most extreme side-effect of not allowing a sealant to properly bond and cure before applying a carnauba topper is the complete removal of the sealant. Most carnuabas have a solvent carrier. This solvent will basically wipe-off the partially bonded-zero cured sealant. In short, you are just seeing the carnuaba.
As stated above, allow a sealant to cure as long as possible prior to topping with anything, including itself unless it has an accelerator that allows multiple coats in 1 day (i.e. ZFX). actually longer than 24hrs is better. Most sealant do not reach their pinnacle of appearance glory until completely cured. This process may take a week. That is why many state that their sealant treated vehicle actually looks better after a few day.
You guys are so nice. Really learn a lot from Autopiaen. So far the only protection that I allow to cure correctly is ZAINO.
 
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Old 03-18-05, 08:26   #8 (permalink)
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It is all relative. If the sealant 90% cures in an hour and then you add some wax the sealant will still outlast the wax
 
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Old 03-18-05, 08:41   #9 (permalink)
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Question

Quote:
Originally posted by Lowejackson
It is all relative. If the sealant 90% cures in an hour and then you add some wax the sealant will still outlast the wax
The question still stands on the degree of cured status. 90% in 1 hour . Where is the derivation of this number. I can not dispute this 90% claim but it would be nice to know if this is a neighborhood internet myth or a sealant producer's claim.

If I personally produced a sealant that was 90% cured in one hour, I would state that "my" sealant is ready for re-application in one hour. This would definitely be a great selling point. I see no sealant producers making this claim.

Second question about the 90%.
Does the 90% stand for the amount of complete crosslinking or 90% of the crosslinking process has occurred. The former would be tolerant of a re-application. The latter would not because the bonds (crosslinks) are still very labile.
I sort of doubt that this high of a percentage (90%) is actually fully cured. JMHO.

This is not a seed for an augument but for fuel for discussion.
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Old 03-18-05, 08:49   #10 (permalink)
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No the 90% was just a nominal figure. Sorry for the lack of clarity. The propose was to illustrate that even when less than total curing had taken place, most sealants would still outlast a wax.

I understand this is not an ideal method or technique.

Obviously there are many variable factors such as atmospheric conditions and the attributes of a particular sealant and that is why I am generalising.
 
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Old 03-18-05, 09:13   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Wax, sealant, cure time

Quote:
Originally posted by opass
Recently I detail 2 cars with sealant top with wax without letting the sealant to cure (24 hours+). What could happen?

Am I going to lose the wet look sooner than wax by itself?

If I don't have time to allow the sealant to cure and add wax on top within an hour, the finish can last at least like the wax, less than wax or longer than wax?

What's the disadvanture not letting the sealant to cure before wax?

Durability?

all the layers will disappear at the next wash or rain?


Nothing is going to happen when you detail a car with sealant and top with wax without letting the sealant cure 24 hours.

No, you are not going to lose the wet look sooner than wax by itself.

The finish will last longer than the wax even when you don't have time to allow the sealant to cure and add wax on top within an hour.

There is basically no major disadvantage not letting the sealant to cure before wax.

Since you are not that concerned 'about long long durability' that should not really be a factor.

No, all the layers will not disappear at the next wash or rain.
 
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Old 03-18-05, 09:16   #12 (permalink)
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The problem I see with a non-cross-linked polymer that has a Carnauba wax applied over it, is that the solvents in the wax will leach oils to the polymer which will affect its catatonic bonding with the paint (as well as its strength and durability as already stated) and why the polymer is in a ‘flux’ (i.e. not yet fully bonded0 the wax (which relies mostly on surface tension, which works best with a solid (as opposed to a semi liquid surface) so it’s bonding is also effected.
JonM
 
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