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Old 12-06-01, 06:53   #13 (permalink)
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Philipminion: I recommend using Iso-HEET. You can find it in a red bottle at your local auto parts store. Brad recommended Stabil, which I am sure is fine (again, most auto parts stores have it).

If you want to get really anal about it, you can remove the sparkplugs and squirt some oil (engine oil) in each cylinder to keep the walls nice and clean. Also, when you do restart, you can disconnect the distributor so when you crank, oil begins to flow and lubricate the engine. Reconnect the distributor and start the car.
 
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Old 12-06-01, 08:55   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks alot Yell00ITR
I will look for some Iso-HEET.
 
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Old 12-06-01, 09:17   #15 (permalink)
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Stored many the car...

Prior to becoming a Ford Tech, I spent a number of years working at an Auto Museum in Wisconsin - the owners (a father and son) had over 400 cars between the two of them, and they ranged from 1901 Olds' to 1999 Pace Cars. My favorites were the 1946 Lincoln Convertible Indy Pace Car (V12), the 1970 Super Bird 426, and the 1971 Buick GS Stage 1 Convertible...hmmmmmmmm.

I've also owned (and stored) several cars, including a 1979 Z28 with 8,000 original miles and my latest car - 1993 Ford Cobra.

Here's what I'd recommend (see below)


Quote:
Originally posted by philipminion
Thanks again everyone. I feel so much better now after having read all those great tips

So here is what I need in no paricular order :

1. Trickle Charger for the battery

Buy a device called "The Battery Tender". It's the best long-term charger I've ever seen, and according to Motorcycle Consumer News, it's one of the safest & most reliable.
2. Top off all liquids
3. Stabil in fuel tank - What is a name brand for this Stabil / gas stabilizer stuff? Yell00ITR and Brad B. , can you guys recommend something?

Stabil is the brand name, fill your gas tank full, then add the Stabil and drive the car about 5 - 10 miles. This will ensure that the Stabil makes its way all the way through the fuel system.
4. Emergency brake is not engaged
5. Fresh oil and filter change

Make sure this is the very last thing you do. Don't run the car after you change the oil & filter. You can crank the engine over a few times after you change the oil, but don't run the car.

6. Arm and Hammer Baking soda in the trunk and in the front and back seat floor of the car to absorb moisture
7. Windows tightly closed
8. Wash the car outside and in and let dry THOROUGHLY before putting it away and a car cover would be an asset

Definitely get a car cover. They're the biggest and best insurance item you can get.

9. Park on carpet scraps or several layer of cardboard rather than bare concrete

Agreed, however, when we stored the very valuable cars (we had a national winning Hurst/Olds Pace car with original Polyglass tires...), we'd put them on 4 jackstands, and then put smaller jackstands under the suspension pieces. This would keep the springs and shocks from 'over-extending' themselves during extended storage periods. I'd recommend jacking it up if possible.

10. Start the car monthly you MUST let it run for 15 minutes minimum AFTER the car is at FULL operating temperature. ( This will burn off the chemical condensation. Any less heat-time will be worse than not starting it at all. )


This is an area that's up for a lot of debate, but starting an engine and letting it idle for 15 minutes (especially a carburated car) will introduce fuel into the oil, that usually isn't burned out by just idling. For this reason, we never ran the cars during storage. Also, we'd perform a complete cooling system flush before storage, and we also had "silicate spark-plugs" that had a dessicant (sp?) in them rather than an electrode. This kept the cylinders rust free, in the event that there was excessive humidity/moisture while in storage.
We also spent a lot of money on mouse/rat traps! ;-)
So basically, it all depends on how long you're going to store the car and how obsessive you want to be about it!
 
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Old 12-06-01, 09:36   #16 (permalink)
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Re: Stored many the car...

Thanks geekysteve for the extra steps. Obviously, you have experience with this kind of thing from working in the museum. I appreciate your imput. I'll be storing the car until April and I'll have to decide what I'm going to do about stands or no stands. That's proabably the only one I'm not sure about.
 
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Old 12-06-01, 09:47   #17 (permalink)
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No problem, my pleasure to help.

One last little tid-bit of advice...if you're super obsessive...when you get ready to take the car out of storage in the spring, start it up, and let it run while on jackstands and in gear.

Make sure you have it nice and stable on the stands...this will allow the gear oil to come up to temperature without placing much of a load on the rear end. Nothing like some cold 80W90...

Then, go out and drive the car until you've used up a good portion of the gas in the tank. You might want to add a bottle of Isopropol before driving; the Stabil will keep the fuel from going stale, but it won't absorb water (I don't think...haven't looked at a bottle of it for a while). After you finish driving it, take 'er home, jack it back up and change the oil & filter, and change the spark plugs (if it's feasible).

The reason is this: the Stabil & fuel find their way into the oil (via unavoidable blow-by), and the plugs will have a residue on them from the Stabil. It usually shows up as a reddish/brown "tint". I always change my oil & filter & plugs on my Cobra after my first lengthy drive. I'm really a nut though.

Of course, be sure to check the tire PSI before driving, yada, yada.
 
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Old 12-07-01, 04:12   #18 (permalink)
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I just read up on the gold eagle products 'ISO-HEET and STA-BIL" at www.goldeagle.com. I have never used these products before and didn't realize that they were 2 different products. So thanks Brad and Yell00ITR for your suggestions to use these products, and forgive my ignorance in not realizing that the difference between the 2. I found the STA-BIL today, but not the ISO-HEET. I'm sure I'll find it tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone
 
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Old 12-08-01, 03:47   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah, one is a fuel stabilizer and the other is a drying agent of sorts. You can use both. Oh, did we tell you previously to park the car with a full tank of gas? If not (i havent reviewed the thread), park the car with full tank of fresh gas, and add the chemicals to that.

Good luck.
 
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Old 12-09-01, 12:15   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks Yell00ITR,

Full tank of gas it shall be

You guys are the best!
 
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