Tomorrow.....Swirl Removal D-Day (a few questions)

ZoominLude · 12-01-01, 09:45

I've set tomorrow afternoon (after church) to be the do or die day of swirl removal. I've found a store that carries the necessary 3M products but I dont exactly which one to get. I've heard suggestions of Swirl Remover, Finnese It II, etc. I plan on doing this by hand so what will be the easiest and most effective to use. Also, approximately how long should it take to do the whole car by hand? I ask so I can judge how effective my progress is. Finally, how much and in what fashion (circular or up and down) should I apply it? Is there a 'drying time'? Thanks for all the help in advance. I've learned alot from this forum and plan to try to test my knowledge/skill tomorrow.

912mom · 12-02-01, 12:20

Hi, I came up with two points that I can think of now. One is to use straight strokes with an abrasive. You can search the posts for the most effective directions on each panel. Also, always try the least abrasive first to see if that is strong enough and then switch to more abrasive product only if that doesn't seem to be working. If you do a search on swirl marks there is a lot more info than I can come up with at this time. Good luck and enjoy, Diane

FLONI · 12-02-01, 01:23

had some trouble with the FI-II by hand..it was a real PITA to work in and get off...i think although it can be used by hand (as others have posted)..that its better suited to a PC/machine applicator....on the other hand the SMR was very user friendly by hand...i worked it in like 912 said...until it was practically gone and became more difiicult as the product lessened...then removed right away...just go slow...1 area at a time and inspect your work frequently ...good luck.dood...

.......................just dont let it toally dry/cure like the wax/sealants we all use....get it on...then take it off...post your results with it by hand...i am interested ...

ZoominLude · 12-02-01, 05:40

I'll be sure to post results. I have a $60.00 Craftsman orbital buffer (10" I think), would this be OK to use to make the job easier/faster? I've heard alot of people talk about random machine polishers for $100+, but that is on Christmas list. Would a standard 10" orbital buffer be alright for now? Also, what bonnet material would be best for application/removal?

ZoominLude · 12-02-01, 09:18

I went by the local auto parts store that sells 3M and it was closed (sunday) so I guess I'll have to hold off to tomorrow. I peered through their window and saw quite an assortment of products. I could see 3M Swirl Remover and FI2. I also saw some Liquid Glass and a small jug of Klasse (not sure if it was AIO or the pure sealant) as well as some stuff I didn't recognize (PolySealant for one). I also saw some Meguairs Swirl Remover but it was a very old timey looking bottle.

carguy · 12-02-01, 09:59

If you need to use FI - II to remove swirls (You'll try SMR first to see if that is enough, right?) then you'll need to work and work and work it, especially by hand. If you don't, you'll be using it at its most abrasive which will leave microfine scratches (finer than typical swirls, but enough to cause hazing.) The goal is for it to do the hard work up front, but to continue working it so that the abrasives diminish - actually become finer, more like a polish - which then polishes out the scratches left from the initial rubbing.

I use the orbital, but I've found that if I work it until it is so dry/fine the application actually starts lifting the residue off and leaving nothing behind - at least in spots of the general area you're working on -= that this is a good sign the abrasives has broken down and completed their finer "polishing" step.

In any case, start with heavy pressure and end with light pressure.

ZoominLude · 12-02-01, 10:11

Yeah, from what I've read it would make more sense to use an orbital buffer for the SMR. The buffer comes with a smooth "wax applicator" type bonnet and two terry cloth bonnets I presume to remove the polish. Is this OK?