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02-08-05, 11:15
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#25 (permalink)
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Come on! Fhqwhgads!!
Jngrbrdman is offline
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: -Salt Lake City- Former Deputy Dawg
Posts: 6,022
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I don't know what PrepSol is, but you are probably right. I just happen to have quite a stash of their products so it is what I'll use. I'm sure that there isn't anything too unique about it and there are probably a hundred other options just like it. Any autobody paint shop should be able to point you in the right direction for a similar product.
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Obsessive Compulsive Detailing shouldn't be cured....
...it should be Encouraged!
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02-08-05, 11:20
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#26 (permalink)
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Practical Perfectionist
Accumulator is offline
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 24,898
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jngrbrdman
Autoint has a "new car prep" that is more suited for removing the glue from the plastic than ABC is. Its a safe solvent compared to an acid bath. Its great at getting adhesives off.
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Yeah, I meant *after* the New Car Prep, sorry I wan't more clear. With the blue you might not need the ABC as much as I did with silver...
I too just used a PrepSol type product the last time I took off the film, so I'll enjoy hearing how the NCP works for you. I expect it'll be just great.
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02-08-05, 11:23
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#27 (permalink)
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Come on! Fhqwhgads!!
Jngrbrdman is offline
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: -Salt Lake City- Former Deputy Dawg
Posts: 6,022
Contact:
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I've always been fairly impressed with what I've used on the ValuGuard line. You can tell that it is designed to be used by detail shops that are faced with a zillion problems. Some of their polishing compounds are really nice to use. I know that shop grade products aren't talked about a lot on Autopia, but these are some that are worth looking into if anyone is interested. I'm looking forward to writing a review on the new car prep. 
__________________
Obsessive Compulsive Detailing shouldn't be cured....
...it should be Encouraged!
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02-08-05, 06:47
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#28 (permalink)
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I Hate College
NavindraLR is offline
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 981
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lochi
I debadged mine using a hair dryer, dental floss and some alcohol
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worked for me.. dont use a heat gun.. it can mess up the paint.. a hair dryer is more than enough
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02-08-05, 06:55
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#29 (permalink)
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Registered User
ShineShop is offline
Join Date: May 2002
Location: The Great White North
Posts: 742
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jngrbrdman
I've always been fairly impressed with what I've used on the ValuGuard line. You can tell that it is designed to be used by detail shops that are faced with a zillion problems. Some of their polishing compounds are really nice to use. I know that shop grade products aren't talked about a lot on Autopia, but these are some that are worth looking into if anyone is interested. I'm looking forward to writing a review on the new car prep.
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Ever tried the finishing wax? Awesome stuff. Same with the OEM One Step.
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02-12-05, 09:28
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#30 (permalink)
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Registered User
STBear is offline
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 113
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I always make a point to tell them specifically to not put their dealer badges or stickers on the car. If they do I will not sign for the car until it is removed by them with no damage to the paint. Only had to have them do that once. The salesman couldn't believe it.
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06-28-05, 07:05
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#31 (permalink)
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Registered User
deezr is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 34
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Lochi
I debadged mine using a hair dryer, dental floss and some alcohol 
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I do not recommend drinking alcohol while debadging.  Just Kidding!
In my experience, I have learned the hard way that you need a good solvent to dilute the glue. I recommend Goof Off TM. The last thing I debadged I ended up making a mess of the paint because I finished the first aerosol bottle of Goof Off TM and thought I could get through the rest w/o it. I ended up exchanging the solvent for elbow grease and paid the price. Now I have to compound/polish/wax the paint in the area of the badge to restore it to it's original lustre.
If you can get your hands on some 15+ lb. fishing line, get it. I tried the floss and it kept breaking. As for the hairdryer, the solvent does what it can do and more. I ended up literally melting the plastic badges. Spraying the area with Goof Off and waiting about a minute does the exact same thing as the dryer w/o the risk of ruining the badge or your precious paint.
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06-28-05, 10:20
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#32 (permalink)
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Registered User
tomstin is offline
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 159
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I have also had a lot of funny looks from Sales people when I insist they write on the deal sheet that "the vehicle will not be accepted at delivery with the dealer insignia anywhere on the vehicle". And one guy was REALLY angry when the car came out with the deal logo and I asked for my trade-in's keys back! It was fun to turn the tables for a change.
On to the problem, 10lb fishing line and goo-gone took care of my Toyota emblems. However the letters were destroyed!
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06-28-05, 10:41
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#33 (permalink)
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Registered User
sk24max is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 9
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I debadged my trunk and it hasn't come out well. Where my nissan emblem was, the paint is darker. Where the letters were, their are small remains of glue that won't come out. I've tried heat gun, bug n tar remver, goo gone, waxing, rubbing alcohol. Any suggestions?
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06-28-05, 12:09
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#34 (permalink)
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Registered User
deezr is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 34
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sk24max
I debadged my trunk and it hasn't come out well. Where my nissan emblem was, the paint is darker. Where the letters were, their are small remains of glue that won't come out. I've tried heat gun, bug n tar remver, goo gone, waxing, rubbing alcohol. Any suggestions?
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Goof Off Industrial Strength! Spray it on with the aerosol can version and then spray some on a terry cloth and rub it off. For the heavy stuff I use the end of a popsicle stick and or a carpenter's pencil that hasn't been sharpened - at a 45' angle. They make mincemeat of the rubber part of the adhesive and they don't scratch the paint. Once you get down to the glue part left on the paint, soak the area with Goof Off Industrial Strength and use a cloth. Keep the area wet as you work.
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06-28-05, 04:41
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#35 (permalink)
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Registered User
sk24max is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 9
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Where can I get myself some goof off industrial strength?
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