Getting confused with PC pads & backing plates again:

[Inzane]

I'll give the quick rundown of what I have, then you'll see my problem/dilemma:

I have:
- coastal tools PC7424 kit w/ 6" backing plate (non-flexible) and 6" counterweight
- a couple Meguiar's 6.5" W-8006 polishing pads
- a bunch of Lake Country 6" VC durofoam pads in white, yellow and black (CMA calls these "6.5"", but they're actually 6").

I've found that using the 6" backing plate with the 6" LC pads tends to be a bit dangerous, particularly when working around spoilers, mirrors and the transition/corners between vertical and horiztontal surfaces on front and rear bumper covers. Not so much a problem with the Meg's pads because you have a bit of a buffer zone on the edge, but these standard LC pads are FLUSH with the edge of the backing plate... no room for error.

So I'm trying to figure out a cost-effective and practical strategy here. I want to try some 7.5" LC advanced pads, my thinking being that they should give the safety factor for working those tight spots. But does anyone know if the standard 6" backing plate will chew these pads up from the inside?

For my 6" & 6.5" pads, I was thinking of getting one of those yellow flexible backing plates (the 43-125DA), however it says for pads 5" to 6.5" only. So if I got some 7.5" advanced pads, I wouldn't be able to use them with the smaller backing plate (vibration? or what) right?

I guess I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to be stuck needing TWO backing plates and having to swap them all the time depending what pads I want to use, or is there one ideal all-purpose backing plate I can use that will serve all my intents here?

Also if I use the 5" flexible plate do I need to switch back to the 5" counterweight?

Arrgghhh... too many details!

[scottabir]

The 6 inch backing plate is just fine for the VC 7.5 pads. It will not chew the pads up. All mine look just fine, I use the same combo as you. If you want to use the 6 inch pads I would suggest getting the 5 inch backing plate for your "safety margin", and yes switch them out. It takes all but 10 seconds to unscrew the backing plates and put a new one on.
You don't have to switch counterweight everytime.

[Unreal]

The 6" backing plate will be fine with the 7 1/2" pads but I would switch to the 5" plate for use with the 6" pads just for the comfort of not having the backing plate at the very edge of the pad.

[MartyGrant]

I bought a 5" counter weight which was a waste of $1.95 so your 6" weight is just fine. I am of the opinion that 5" pads work best vibration wise. I am making a stick-on-loop pad out of the stiff 6" you get with the PC and experiment with LC 7.5" pads. (You got to learn by doing sometimes.)

I have one of those "flexible" backing plates Autopia's store sells and was not that impressed with its "flex". MAYBE CMA's yellow plate is not like that and has better flex. (BTW, I really like CMA's pads because they have more loop material than Autopia's LC 6".)

I bought the 5" Contour backing plate from Porter Cable with the heat/dust holes, not that that matters much either way, and couldn't be happier. It has much better "flex" ("compression" might be a better word) on the contact (hook) edge while keeping "stiffer" top firmness (nearest to the PC). I'll post a picture if anyone cares to see it. I'm realy surprised I never read about anyone else using the Porter Cable Contour pad.
Anyway, just one guy's opinion and preference I guess.

[HotRodGuy]

I just got my kit, I can't for the life of me figure out why they decided to give us a 6" backing plate w/ their 6" pads, it looks quite scary. You would think they'd give you the 5" plate. Who knows. The plate construction is great though