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Old 08-15-03, 06:30   #1 (permalink)
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Please critique the first major detail on my new car...

I bought a 350Z a few months ago, and although I've been washing it weekly, I haven't yet performed a full detail. I'm a neophyte autopian (obviously), but I've spent several weeks just reading and researching everything I can in preparation. I have assimilated A LOT of information, so I'm now at the mercy of everyone's opinion. I know there's no one solution for everything, but I'm just curious if there are any glaring issues. Here we go...

Through much debate with myself, I have decided to go with the Klasse twins. I've read all the threads on the proper application, so I won't bore anyone with more questions on that topic.

- I wash my car with #62 using my sheepskin mit and the two bucket method. I dry first with my CWB and then follow up with my BBT. It works great!

- I'm going to claybar the car using the Pinnacle Clay Kit I bought.

- I have very, very minor swirl marks on the hood and other areas, so I'd like to polish them out. I have a PC7336, and I am going to employ the autopian method of using the least abrasive method first. I'm going to try PI-IIIMG with a CMA white pad. I really don't think I'll need anything more abrasive than that, so I'm not going the DACP and yellow pad route unless absolutely necessary. I also have 3MSMR, but I understand it has light fillers. Is PI-IIIMG the best choice for my scenario?

- I'm uncertain at this point as to whether I should #62 my vehicle again, or if I should go with something like GEPC/MPPC. Should I #62 then GEPC/MPPP, just GEPC/MPPP, or neither?

- I'll AIO the car. I'm going to try applying AIO using my PC. Thanks to Jimhw for his excellent Klasse instructions. From what I hear, I can lightly FI spots that become difficult to buff out. I'll just play around and see what works best.

- I'll go straight to the SG. I've heard that this can be difficult, but there are plenty of threads with detailed instructions to help me through the process. I'll wait a couple of days and then apply another layer of SG, probably.

- I'm using 303 on the interior, EFHI on the wheels, IG on the windows, and black saphire for the tire dressing.

- I'll keep her dust free with my CCD and glossy with FI!

I know that's not a *full* detail, but I don't want to bore anyone with all the other details. The above are what I feel I really need the opinions on. If you've read this entire thread, I greatly appreciate it!
 
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Old 08-15-03, 06:32   #2 (permalink)
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A pretty blurry picture of the Z pre-detail.
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Old 08-15-03, 06:55   #3 (permalink)
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Nice car!

IMO, I would skip any washing or paint cleaners like GEPC if you are going to user AIO. AIO has cleaners which would remove anything on the paint anyway. Especially since you are going to apply by PC.

The rest of the regiment looks great!
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Old 08-15-03, 07:10   #4 (permalink)
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Of course, it is sweet.

Whwere did the swirls come from? Until you eliminate the cause, your buffing will be in vain.

Allow me to remind you that ANY buffing removes clearcoat. Write that down somewhere!

Me? I'd do the AIO by hand... you'll be sure to get the areas between moulding and panels... time should not be an issue, and that would be the only reason to the PC, IMHO.

Altho I'm a huge fan ofThe Klasse Twins, they WILL make that color (IMHO) TOO shiney. A little carnuaba would mellow it after 2nd coat of SG. In fact, I've found successive layers just make it better...
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Old 08-15-03, 07:17   #5 (permalink)
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Welcome to the board ChadO. I agree with Jimamary about applying the AIO by hand. In the long run I think you will be happy with the results.

BTW really nice car!
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Old 08-15-03, 07:17   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like a good plan.

Don't forget to AIO the wheels!!

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Old 08-15-03, 08:10   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the opinions and compliments all!

Quote:
Originally posted by jimamary
Of course, it is sweet.

Whwere did the swirls come from? Until you eliminate the cause, your buffing will be in vain.
I believe it was from the dealer who performed the original "detail." I hadn't heard of Autopia when I took delivery, and although I was concerned about swirlmarks at the point I felt that he would do a good job. He left lint all over the car, so I'm pretty certain he introduced the marks.

I wash front to back on the horizontal surface of the vehicle, and top to bottom on the vertical surfaces. I never wash in circles, and I rinse my mit often. I shouldn't be introducing swirls, but I guess the possibility isn't entirely nonsensical.

Quote:
Allow me to remind you that ANY buffing removes clearcoat. Write that down somewhere!
From what I've read through Autopia and other places, the amount of clearcoat removed is supposed to be almost negligible if only done on occasion, correct? I believe my washing method is pretty solid so I shouldn't introduce any significant swirl marks in the future. Should I be concerned with the amount of clearcoat removed with a first-time polish?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 08-15-03, 08:20   #8 (permalink)
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New Car

Very nice car!

You too had the dealers "swirl mark and scratch application department" prep the car! My Lexus dealer did the same.

No problems with your washing. I use a CWB and a waffel MF towel to dry. Makes quick work of water removal!

I'd not worry about cleacoat removal, it's not going to be abraded to the point it fails with normal maintenance.

Take your time, find a polish and glaze that works for you, then use a pure good wax or sealant for it.

Invest in some good MF towels and some soft Autopia CBT towels or DFTowels for your final wipe.

You may want to look into paint protection film such as Armorglove.

Enjoy the car!

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Old 08-16-03, 08:44   #9 (permalink)
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ChadO- Welcome to Autopia. Your plan sounds good, and yes, you should be able to go straight from the PI-III MG to the AIO. BTW, AIO will remove MG residue if you have a problem with it, so don't kill yourself scrubbing the residue off (some get it, some don't), let the AIO take care of it. The PI-III MG will not remove too much clear if used infrequently.

I'd do the AIO by PC, getting the out of the way areas by hand. Everyone has their PC/by hand preferences, just see what YOU like best.

I'd put a few layers of SG (after AIO) on the wheels (then DON'T use EF HI on them, it'll strip the SG).

*I'D* get numerous layers of SG on there before considering a wax topper. You might even LIKE the SG look. Multiple layers of SG will provide a "sacrificial layer" that will get marred (if something like that happens) instead of your paint. *I* find SG VERY easy to use...if something seems to go wrong, with this, or any step, post here and someone will probably be able to help you out.
 
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Old 08-16-03, 09:20   #10 (permalink)
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Hey ChadO, welcome and congrats on your new ride
Looks like you did your homework. Just a heads up on the Pinnacle clay. You may notice when you stretch it out, it tends to "spring" back. I was able to cut 1 bar into 3 pieces and use 1 piece for the entire car. So maybe you can do the same since your car is smaller.
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Old 08-16-03, 06:31   #11 (permalink)
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Re: New Car

Quote:
Originally posted by Deanski
You may want to look into paint protection film such as Armorglove.
Highly recommended for the bumper especially on this car. I didn't get it for my 350Z and I have paint chips galore! VERY soft paint.
 
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Old 08-16-03, 07:30   #12 (permalink)
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Armorglove

Oh yea, you really need to look into paint protection film!

I have it on front bumper, hood, headlights, fender by headlights, side mirrors, rocker panels and door cups!

Paint is not effected (color) and you can wax over it, but be careful as it's soft and can get marks easy which are a pain to remove.

If you really value the car, get Armorglove!

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