Help! First time PC use! Paint problem?

blkstealth · 06-24-03, 03:14

Hi everyone, I got all my PC and PC related stuff in and today I started on an inconspicuous area with DACP, SMR, and #7. Well, the DACP removed the swirls I had in a jiffy, but as the swirls went away I noticed something new about my paint.. attached are a few pictures that may make you autopians cringe.. My question is, am I doing this all wrong or is my paint just hopeless? What are the chances of removing all the dimples and spiderwebs? I can't really feel the spots with my fingers. The following is a picture of the area where I used the PC.

blkstealth · 06-24-03, 03:16

And here's a pic of one of the bad spiderwebs... This is on a part that I have NOT used anything on yet.

blkstealth · 06-24-03, 03:20

And here's a picture of the CMA pads I used, 1 yellow cutting for DACP, 1 white polishing for SMR, and 1 white polishing for #7 show car glaze. I do not have a clearcoat. Do these pads need washing already? I've only done an 8"x8" area so far and this is what each pad looked like after around 5 minutes of polishing.

Last but not least, the DACP and #9 are new, but #7 and #26 are about 3 months old and have been stored in the garage, so they have both become less thick and almost watery. Should I invest in some new product?

//MMMGood · 06-24-03, 03:20

Looks really chipped up to me.

Peter Hsu

//MMMGood · 06-24-03, 03:21

Probably the paint if you do not have clearcoat.

Peter Hsu

Smoker · 06-24-03, 03:56

Yeah looks like chips.

The bummer about detailing older cars is when you get the finish worked up nice it shows off all the nasty bits too

Options are alot of time touching up, wetsanding back and polishing or just get it repainted........

Deanski · 06-24-03, 06:15

Looks like acid rain spots. And you do not have a clear coat, so the option would be to level the chipped area with a more agressive product like a Diamond Cut and a cutting pad. Work on one area and check the results. You have to get beyond the etching, and depending on how far they are in you may be removing a bit of paint.

You need to step up to a rotory to level this stuff. Rotory polishers get hotter quicker, and work the cutting or polish more into the paint. You can try it with a PC, but IMO you would be wasting time. Last resort would be wet sanding an area to level. If you've never done it, it takes practice and the right grade paper.

Borrow a rotory if you can and try to level the paint in one area and check the result. If it's level, continue and finish with DACP, #9 and #7 to re-feed paint with the oils in #7. Wait 24hours B4 you put on protection. #7 is oily and needs time to work into the paint and dry up. Then apply your protection.

Other products to look into: 3M products work well with this problems as well as Menzerna if you have a rotory.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Regards,
Deanski

blkstealth · 06-24-03, 09:03

I don't have access to a rotary, if only there were some Autopians in my area

Anyone have any advice about my old polish/wax? I may try using the lambswool pad that I got in the CMA kit with some Diamond Cut Compound (i'll have to order it though, unless NAPA has it).

Fr0zen · 06-24-03, 09:28

I would try some diamond cut with a yellow cma pad first you can rent a rotary from most hardware stores for like 20 bucks a day like ACE hardware by me does that. And try to level the etchings

Andre' · 06-24-03, 11:23

Sorry to say but the etching may be to deep to repair. I would just remove the swirls and fine scratches than lay on a good coat of protectant.

You don't need to wait a day to add the the protection, the oils in the polishes add gloss, but do not feed the finish, that's an old wives tale. Today's polyurethane enamels, many of them water borne contain no oils at all, so adding oils to the finish does nothing but fill in the fine swirlmarks, and adds shine.

blkstealth · 06-25-03, 07:20

Luckily this was the worst area for the paint, the sides and rear bumper dont really have any marks like that, so it's not too bad. Thanks for your advice guys, I will post pictures later today when I'm done with it all.

IndigoGTI · 06-25-03, 08:18

Quote:

Originally posted by blkstealth

Last but not least, the DACP and #9 are new, but #7 and #26 are about 3 months old and have been stored in the garage, so they have both become less thick and almost watery. Should I invest in some new product?

I would not worry about the #7 and #26. I have a bottle of #7 that I have had for two years, and it works just as well now as it did when I bought it. If it seems like the product has separated, stand the bottle upside down for a day and let the sediments settle towards the top, and then shake the crap out of it. Also, my #7 has always been a thin product; if you are trying to compare it to the viscosity of #26, then I could understand why you would think it is bad.