Newbie help New Black Car (kinda long)

[mocatdaze]

Hello all, just found this awesome forum a week ago, just in time for my brand new BLACK Acura. Let me start by saying, I've read the Ebook and have compiled my own crib notes using the search button and by just browsing the forums. After doing so, I went out and bought the following items:

1. Mothers Clay bar
2. Meguiars #7
3. Meguiars #26

I did my first detail on the car this morning and have a few questions on the process and or getting betting results.

After washing my car this morning, I did the celaphane bag trip, and (suprisingly) felt no bumps, so I skipped the clay bar and went straight to #7 and then #26. I let both dry to a light haze and buffed out. My results were pretty good and the car does look very wet, but....

1. I can't imagine doing this by hand a monthly basis. I'm in Texas so it gets awfully hot and sweaty. Is there a recommended buffer (PC) that I can get locally that a newbie could use without getting into trouble? I have no scratches so, just need to apply and buff with it.

2. I passed on the Zaino, just because I wanted the "wet" look on my Black, and have read here that Zaino "probably" isn't the best for my color.

3. I'm still unsure of my process. Should it be wash, seal, wax? If so, then I did wash, glaze/polish, wax. Should I go back and seal then wax?

4. Keeping in mind this is a new car with no swirls or scratches, how would I benefit from OR integrate into my process: Klasse, Blackfire, or S100? I read so much positive about this stuff.

Thanks for any help and guidance... I realize a lot of this is personal preference, and because of this there is so much conflicting information that I'm having trouble sorting through it all...

Thanks again - mo

[JetBlack]

Welcome to the forum mocatdaze. I cannot answer the questions as well as others here can. But I can say that since you have a brand new car you do should not need to use clay bar (unless it has been kept outdoors and the paint has collected contaminants). Also some people insist that you should only wax a new car a few momths after you bought it. This is because the paint is new and needs to breathe.

As a black car owner let me also say, be prepared to work hard to keep it clean. More importantly becareful how you wash your car, move the mitt in one direction only (I do it front to back), do not let any bird droppings bake under the sun otherwise you will definetely need a PC.

Good luck and enjoy your new car

[2wheelsx2]

The paint needing to breathe is a myth. A cursory search will tell you that. On a repaint, which is not baked from the factory, you will have to wait for the paint to harden an cure for 30 to 90 days, according to the instructions of the painter. On a factory car, it's baked, and probably has been sitting around in shipping, etc. for a while, so detail away.

As for the buffer, you should really go and get the PC7424 or the 7336 kit (search for 4DSC's definitive thread on the PC. With a black car, you WILL eventually get swirls, there is no way around it. As a matter of fact, that will happen with any car, but it's just more visible on a black car.

If you want to incorporate Klasse, then you should go this way.

1) AIO
2) SG
3) wax (#26 or S100 or whatever)

AIO will clean off any contamination and old wax, then seal with as many coats of SG as you think are necessary for you level of protection, then apply the wax.

[Pecs_McCoy]

Welcome
You've taken the first step by reading the eBook. I will try to add my flavor to your questions.
1) Once a month on this forum maybe too long in between waxes. There are guys constantly experimenting and when the weather is good they may wax every other week, just b/c. Your durability in the hot Texas sun may vary your results. I don't know the home centers in your area. But start looking there for a Porter Cable 7336, even if your paint doesn't need it for now down the line its better to have bought this one and it's newbie proof.
2) I have no experience with Z. But you've already mentioned you're comfortable searching.
3) Wash, polish, seal/wax. Waxing is sealing your paint. There are 2 types of sealing, synthetic or wax. You have initially chosen waxing.
4) See 3 above: would mean using a polymer after the polish then topping with S100 or your choice of wax.

IMHO your mileage may vary.

[mocatdaze]

Thanks for the replies! Since yesterday, I've gotten a 7336sp from Lowe's. This model is identical to the PC 7336, but comes with the polish attachment. This evening I washed, clayed, polished, and waxed my wife's Silver Highlander using the PC. WOW! I was very nervous using a buffer on a relatively new car, so I set the speed to the lowest setting and started slowly.

I'm still getting the hang of it, but, already can tell how much time it saves. I wasn't comfortable applying wax or polish with the buffer, so just used it for buffing... any input?

I'm planning getting some S100 this week, so now that I've done the initial glazing/polishing and waxing, how should I maintain?

Do I still need to polish and wax each time I wash?

thanks again!

[4DSC]

Welcome to Autopia mo

First, go and get a California Car Duster (CCD) if you haven't already. Follow the tips and instructions both here and in the booklet. You'll wonder how you lived without it.

I think getting a PC is probably a wiser idea in the long-run. As said, you'll need to fix swirls at some point in the car's life and you'll be equipped for any tougher polishing jobs that you may come across from then on. It should last you a very very long time as a hobbyist.

Your process is fine. Wash, polish (if needed), glaze OR polymer, wax (optional with sealant). "Sealing" doesn't really sound like a step to me, and it sounds like you're supposed to do something different from just waxing it with something.

Different products like Klasse, BF, Zaino, S100, #26, etc etc have different looks (so I'm told ) and different usages. The "look" is in the eye of the beholder so people just use whatever they like the looks of and enjoy using. #26 is a good wax, so you can stick with that if you like, or look for something easier to use or longer lasting. It all depends on what kind of process, look, and longevity you're looking for, and keep in mind that if you go the sealant/wax route, you can no longer use the glaze but can keep waxing over it.

EDIT: Okay, I just noticed how slow I type - you've already responed!

Actually, the waxing and polishing are what the big advantage and use of the PC are all about! And using it to buff off stuff is the rarest use... Don't be afraid of the PC. As long as everything is kept clean it's no more dangerous than your hand. Go ahead and crank the speed right up if you're polishing!

No, you don't need to re-wax every time you wash, and even reapplying the glaze is optional every time you wax. Glaze is just temporary "makeup" to improve the look and you can use it or skip it at will.

HTH

[mocatdaze]

I'll crank my PC up to apply my wax next time.

Question: do you apply the actual wax to the buffer or to the car?

1. Using the PC to apply wax, you still need to come back over it and buff it with a new pad, right???

2. I'm still kinda unsure if I need a polymer sealant. If I do, something like Meguiars #20, what does it replace?

3. And I want to try S100. Should I replace my #26 with S100 or put s100 on top of #26?

thanks again!!!

[4DSC]

Unless you think the wax applies easier with a slightly higher speed, don't bother - there's no advantage. I said turn up the speed if you're polishing, that is, using some kind of abrasive polish, where you're trying to work the product into the paint. Apply it to the pad, which BTW, should probably not be the included white PC pad, which is for polishing. Wax by hand until you get some finishing pads.

1) No. Think of the PC as a fast hand. It's not fundamentally different. Most people buff off residues by hand.
2) The glazing step.
3) Either!

[mocatdaze]

Thanks for the quick replies. Even with all I'm learning on this board, it's nice to get some affirmation of what I'm doing is at least on the right track!

Today I went to Autozone and bought these terry applicators with an elastic band and put that on the foam application that came with the PC 7336. I used this to buff. If I'm understanding you, it seems I may have misunderstood or missed something.

The entire foam piece that screws into PC should different and wax applied directly to this? So no need to use a "terry wrap" over it or a terry towel under the PC? And it sounds like when I do apply the wax to the PC and start working on the car, it works into the paint and buffs and the same time? So no need to go back over it with a new applicator?

This should be the last question, at least for tonight! LOL

[hondaguy2582]

if you apply wax by the pc, i would just buff it on and wait for it to haze and wipe it with a cannon or fieldcrest 100% cotton towel, or a quality microfiber(pakshak, jt international, df towel, even turtle wax). It will probably take you at most 20 min to apply it, by the time your done applying it, it should be dry enough to take off. Btw, if your using the meguars paste #26, id do it by hand, and wipe it off after 10 min bc its a bia to remove if it dries. That goes for any paste wax, your better off applying them by hand as that is what they were made for.