Is beading a good indication of remaining wax?

[4DSC]

Originally posted by joed1228
One ounce for one gallon is big time overkill, thats why we are always wondering why the car doesn't bead after 2 washes... you've just stripped everything off your car.

Then how come almost all the car shampoo directions I've seen suggest using 1oz per gallon?

Mirror, the only disadvantage I see to waxing every week is that you're touching your car more often, but the risk of damage is inversely proportional to how meticulous and careful you are of course.

[Intermezzo]

Originally posted by Mirror
I'm not talking about beading. I'm talking about frictionless feel. When you first wax the vehicle the paintwork feels frictionless.

Even the mildest car shampoos degrade wax big-time. I try to limit the amount of shampoo I use to about a half-ounce squirt with 3 gallons of water when the car isn't too dirty. Also, I often use no shampoo at all except on the lowest panels because most of the dirt flies right off with a good rinsing.

If it rained during the week or if the car is very dirty, then I use the recommended full strength ratio of 1 ounce/gallon of water, knowing full well that most of the wax's slickness will be gone afterwards. It'll definitely be time to add a new coat of wax after that.

Originally posted by Mirror
But I love the shocked look on someones face when they come upto the vehicle and comment. But when they put their hand out and touch it. They do not expect to feel silk.

Hehe, I know how you feel. I used to do that to my wife all the time. She marvels at the shine and then marvels even more when she feels how smooth and slick the surface is. Of course, after making her feel the paint a thousand or so times, she doesn't get surprised anymore.

Carguy,

Interesting observations. But doesn't a freshly waxed car that gets dirty during the next few days from rain and dust still bead water fine at the end of the week when it comes time to wash the car? These adhered dirt particles don't seem to affect beading too much.

Also, my experiences with Zaino and Klasse would indicate that it has less to do with what's stuck on your car and more to do with the individual characteristics of your protectant. Klasse stops beading for me after 1 month, but Zaino continues to bead for about 4 months...even though the shine and protection for each product will last about the same.

[Accumulator]

4DSC-

Then how come almost all the car shampoo directions I've seen suggest using 1oz per gallon?

Keep in mind that it's in their best interest for consumers to use up the shampoo so they will buy some more.

I usually use a stronger mix than joed1228 (unless the car's already pretty clean), but 1 0z/gallon is VERY strong; TOO strong, IMO. Somewhere in between 0.2-.08 o/g should work fine on most cars. You can always put in some more soap as you go (the rinsed mitt will bring water from the rinse bucket and further dilute your mix).

Mirror- I've found that Souveran is VERY sensitive to wash solutions. You're right, after a wash it often needs to be refreshed to keep that certain feel.

As for other carnaubas, Collinite beads the EXACTLY the same after more than one wash, and I was using a STRONG wash solution (its on my beater). Probably not the look you're after, though.

segfault- You're right about why the sides quit beading first (more abuse), but no, the road grime won't cause beading. It just leads to a buildup of crud. Not all THAT oily, either.

An observation on beading: usually, when the wash seems to have severely diminished the beading, it still beads just as well later, after I've dried the surface. I'll be thinking "I've gotta rewax next time, oughta rewax now" but when I next wash the car (or have it in the rain) it beads just fine.

[DETAILKING]

-Souveran and collinite are almost on opposite ends of the scale. Collinite is more durable, but souveran is easier to work with and has a superior shine (subjective). It's all a trade off. With Souveran, you should be careful what kind of wash you use. Pinnacle bodywork shampoo is a strong wash, and will remove souveran in 1-2 washes. A reduction in slickness, generally means your wax is depleted. Just for the record, carnuba wax offerer little water beading properties. Usually different waxes are blended and added to the formula to aid in water beading. Polyethylene wax and parrifin wax come to mind.

Car guy makes some good points. As we all know, new, fresh, healthy paint and clearcoat beads water like crazy. As it ages, and becomes pourous on a microscopic level, it's ability to bead water without a protective wax, sealant coating diminishes. One can see this if they took some course rubbing compound and went to town on new paint. I have also noticed that when my car is really dirty, water beading diminishes until it is washed and cleaned.

RIC makes a good point too, as when oils are introduced to the paint by various products (quick details, polishes, glazes,etc, water beading will increase temporarily even though there is no form of durable protection on the car.

Intermezzo---> when my car is not that dirty, i don't even use a bucket.....I just rinse, and apply a tiny bit of car wash directly to my wash mitt where needed......Works for me!

[joed1228]

I think they use the 1 ounce per 1 gallon ratio for those people who wait until their cars are filthy before they wash. They don't want them using a mild ratio and have to wash their car a second time. They want them to use quite a bit of soap so after the first light pass all of the grime is removed.

Most of us clean our cars before they are dirty so a strong soap to water ratio is not needed and can hurt more than help.

[4DSC]

Thanks, good info guys. I guess I'll try cutting down on the amount of shampoo I mix up now.

Has anyone found that any of those "wash & wax" type car shampoos to be any more forgiving? Companies like One Grand, Rain-X, Kit, Rain Dance, TW, etc. etc. all make one but these types of washes are curiously absent from the lines of companies like EO, Megs, Mothers, etc. at least in name. I know I read that most shampoos have some wax-like ingredient in them, but I'm wondering if shampoos labelled as "wash & wax" or touted as carnauba containing would be a better idea?

[Accumulator]

4DSC- Back when I used those "wax containing" washes, I got a lot more wash-related swirls than I now get using Griot's Car Wash (or other "high end" stuff). Never really noticed any benefit from the supposed wax content. Never tried the One Grand one, though.

[carguy]

Thanks to everyone - really good, thoughtful, intriguing replies!

[2wheelsx2]

Originally posted by 4DSC


Has anyone found that any of those "wash & wax" type car shampoos to be any more forgiving? Companies like One Grand, Rain-X, Kit, Rain Dance, TW, etc. etc. all make one but these types of washes are curiously absent from the lines of companies like EO, Megs, Mothers, etc. at least in name. I know I read that most shampoos have some wax-like ingredient in them, but I'm wondering if shampoos labelled as "wash & wax" or touted as carnauba containing would be a better idea?

I think the wax-like agents are probably oils which are shine enhancing and add lubricity, in the non-wax soaps. My father was a big user of TW's Zip Wax (remember that?) and I remember that the car was always shiny, but the finish felt rough, probably because the wax content bound some dirt onto the surface. Never noticed swirls because I didn't know better and the car was light blue.

[TOGWT]

I've tried a ratio 1/3 -2/3 liquid wax to car shampoo, looks good (wipe off panel by panel, don't let it air dry)

Tip from Groit's


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