Recommendations for Wet Sanding Lacquer Paint - Page 2

RaskyR1 · 11-06-09, 02:27

I would do some test spots with some milder polishes first...the older Megs line works very well on old oxidiZed SS paints. M01, M02, M80...

This was done doing the following..

Buffing Process:

M01 with wool pad on rotary
M80 with W8006 on FLEX
M07 hand app
Gold class wax via PC

before

After

toyotaguy · 11-06-09, 03:08

yeah I would use the 80 lineup on single stage cars...

Accumulator · 11-07-09, 08:19

RaskyR1- Interesting that M80 (via Flex no less) was an OK follow up to M01.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin

Initial plan of action: 1)compound with M95 and PF wool pad (I also have regular wool pads) 2) follow with Menz SIP and PF wool 3) finish with Menz 106ff and finishing pad...

IMO the last step is risky. Using 106FF after wool (even PFW) could *VERY* easily lead to the weird "106FF filling issue" that I observed on my Yukon, and on that vehicle the pre-106FF step was a lot milder than that. And the guy who did the work was somebody who's *VERY* good (and highly regarded here), so if it can happen to him it can happen to anybody.

I use something else to get things perfect and *then* do a final polishing with 106; I never rely on 106 (at least not 106FF and I dunno which 106 I have as it's relabeled) to actually *correct* anything even mild stuff that it *can* fix.

If it's really lacquer, I'd use some Meguiar's Pure Polish on it before the LSP. Anything other than M07 oughta only take a few minutes.

WhyteWizard · 11-07-09, 09:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by bufferbarry

Rob feel free to call me if you need advice I will certainly help you out!

Call Barry.

Robert

Rob Tomlin · 11-07-09, 08:25

Well, 10 hours in, and man, this paint was really a mess.

When I got to my friends house this morning and saw the paint again, I realized that I had forgot how bad it was, and why I was thinking we were going to wet sand it to begin with. I did compound a section of the hood for the heck of it, and it immediately became obvious that this car was going to be wet sanded!

Lots and lots of etching, RIDS and just plain crap embedded in the paint. So out came the 2000 grit paper, and away we went on the hood. Buffed. No dice. Still way too much crap in the paint!

In a nutshell, we wound up wet sanding the whole car with 1200 grit paper, and followed that with 2000. Believe it or not, even this combo was not overly aggressive for this paint. It just a bad paint job that was obviously done in someones garage.

We were very lucky that there appears to be quite a bit of paint on the car in general, though some of the body lines/edges are very thin, but that was the case before we ever touched the car.

We have the entire car compounded, and it looks a lot better, with a really good shine. It's still disappointing that there is so much crud in the paint and even after 1200 there are still RIDS remaining.

It what we call a 15 footer. It will look real good from that distance.

Tomorrow we will polish, finish and apply the LSP.

Pics to come in the next couple of days.

Rob Tomlin · 11-07-09, 08:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

IMO the last step is risky. Using 106FF after wool (even PFW) could *VERY* easily lead to the weird "106FF filling issue" that I observed on my Yukon, and on that vehicle the pre-106FF step was a lot milder than that. And the guy who did the work was somebody who's *VERY* good (and highly regarded here), so if it can happen to him it can happen to anybody.

I use something else to get things perfect and *then* do a final polishing with 106; I never rely on 106 (at least not 106FF and I dunno which 106 I have as it's relabeled) to actually *correct* anything even mild stuff that it *can* fix.

If it's really lacquer, I'd use some Meguiar's Pure Polish on it before the LSP. Anything other than M07 oughta only take a few minutes.

To be honest, I might skip the 106ff completely. This paint probably doesn't deserve a fine finishing job! I really don't have any other options available....other than an old bottle of Poorboys SSR1 (and 2 for that matter).

Accumulator · 11-08-09, 08:44

Rob Tomlin- Well, I sure wouldn't do anything that won't really make a difference, especially at this point.

Glad to hear you got a handle on things, and that the paint was thick enough to withstand what you needed to do.

Actually, it sounds to me like you're making good progress for the time invested.

Atlantic Euro · 11-08-09, 09:24

[edit - missed the 2nd page, so this isn't as relevant, though I'm wondering if you could have gone pure Flex/PC and done as well starting with a pretty aggressive polish]

My recommendation would be to polish the whole car and see what spots remain that need attention like wetsanding. You may find that what is left is worth living with vs. the risk. At a minimum, you'll know where the real problems are.

A local guy borrowed my GlossHaus kit to use on a BMW E30 he'd picked up for $250. It has SS paint, and after washing and clay still looked like this:

After three levels of GlossHaus polish, glaze and polymer/sealant wax: (as well as some work on the trim, etc.)

I'd bet you can bring the lacquer back farther than you think without wetsanding.

RaskyR1 · 11-08-09, 07:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

RaskyR1- Interesting that M80 (via Flex no less) was an OK follow up to M01.

.

How so? It's a medium polish followed by a light polish.

Rob Tomlin · 11-08-09, 10:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Rob Tomlin- Well, I sure wouldn't do anything that won't really make a difference, especially at this point.

That's exactly it. The simple fact was that we were not going to remove nearly enough of the crap that was in the paint simply with compound. Yes, we could have made the paint shiny, but there were so many other problems it really would not have looked very good.

The car needs to be repainted, so we really had very little to lose by wet sanding.

Quote:

Glad to hear you got a handle on things, and that the paint was thick enough to withstand what you needed to do.

We removed a LOT of paint, so it did indeed of quite a bit of paint on it....except where it counts most, of course, the edges!

We did wind up with two spots where you can see the primer start to come through. That's the bad news. The good news is that it was my friend who did both of them!

Quote:

Actually, it sounds to me like you're making good progress for the time invested.

I agree considering all the work we did. Remember, my friend was helping me, so it was a two man operation. We finished today, and it took a total of 17-18 hours over the weekend.

The final product was very good overall, considering the condition the paint was in. My friend is very happy with the end result, as it looks like a night and day improvement.

I will try to post pictures in the next day or two.

Rob Tomlin · 11-08-09, 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atlantic Euro

I'd bet you can bring the lacquer back farther than you think without wetsanding.

Not even close.

We specifically concentrated on one area of the car to see how far we could get just using an aggressive compound/pad combo (m95 with wool pad). It simply was not working. The paint had far too many issues. Not only did compounding not work, but 2000 grit paper wasn't enough, so we wound up using 1200!

Accumulator · 11-09-09, 09:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by RaskyR1

How so? It's a medium polish followed by a light polish.

I would consider M01 more aggressive than that (he "Medium" cut in the name carries no weight with me)...I can see doing M02 then M80, but I'd expect M01/M80 to be too big jump. Just guessing though as I've never used M01. M02 finished out well enough to be followed with M80 *if* it was worked properly, but otherwise even it was a big on the coarse side IME. And of course the paint in question always factors in...