Claying questions - Page 3

SuperBee364 · 10-13-09, 08:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by salty

I am going to take the civil road and say I agree with both of you.

The mildest clay I have would be hard pressed to marr a clean well lubed surface, that said it also has no real use because it doesn't remove hardly anything.

Step up to a clay that can remove a contaminate in timely manner and yes there is some marring going on.

Personally if i am going to clay a surface it is going to get polished after.

Yup, same here. Claying is polish prep.

Accumulator · 10-13-09, 09:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by salty

..The mildest clay I have would be hard pressed to marr a clean well lubed surface, that said it also has no real use because it doesn't remove hardly anything..

Well, I'd debate the "no real use" part, but you're right about it hardly removing anything; this is *NOT* real "decontamination" I'm talking about. Rather, it's just getting stuff that my oh-so-gentle wash regimen can leave behind (yeah, there're a few debatable issues there, huh?).

Whenever I clay for the purposes of resolving baggie-test-level issues I expect to perhaps mar things up a bit and have to polish. But that's one *very* rare situation for me, and if I luck out and *don't* see the need to polish after all, so much the better.

But then I avoid polishing/re-LSPing like the plague whenever possible...hey, I pretty much avoid detailing *period* as much as possible

salty · 10-13-09, 08:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Well, I'd debate the "no real use" part, but you're right about it hardly removing anything; this is *NOT* real "decontamination" I'm talking about. Rather, it's just getting stuff that my oh-so-gentle wash regimen can leave behind (yeah, there're a few debatable issues there, huh?).

True the ultra mild clay would work for an after wash touch up, used properly. But for the average car it will not remove the contaminates in the time needed.

Because I do some correction after I clay 99% of the time, customers cars, I probably reuse my clay more than most. While not ideal, most of these cars have never been clayed and the simple act of removing the contaminates causes marring.

To use new clay on ever car would be costly, exception is the 1% that I see.

Accumulator · 10-14-09, 08:04

Salty- That brings up a good point: the diff between what a pro encounters and what somebody like me (usually) deals with. Once I get a newly purchased vehicle cleaned up, it just never gets really bad again, *ever*. So I don't really ever *do* what I guess is "normal claying"; I'm either hammering a neglected (by the previous owner) used car during the initial reconditioning, or decontaminating a new car (with "ABC" etc.), or doing maintenance details on something in near-concours condition. Kinda one extreme or the other.

Totally different from what you pros deal with, huh?

CivicBeater · 10-14-09, 08:17

superbee/accumulator, I've really enjoyed reading your commentary. Quite hilarious and I'm glad to see members of a forum agree to disagree in some aspects.

Very well, carry on...

NSXTASY · 10-14-09, 08:41

I have found that the softer and more pliable the clay, generally, the less marring. Riccardo yellow and blue are outstanding, followed by sonus green. Clay Magic Blue mars terribly for me, as its quite hard and un-pliable, as is Zaino clay (though they both are effective and efficient).

My guess is that the softer the clay the more readily contaminants are pressed further into the clay surface and therefore less likely to abrade the paint surface.