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Thread: Brillo pad

  1. #13

    Re: Brillo pad

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    eyezack87's Avatar
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    Great job! Glad you got them out
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  2. #14

    Re: Brillo pad

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    Wow, I honestly never knew that out of all my time scouting Autopia. Would it also help is I used a few spritzes of QD in between sections?

    BTW: Thanks eyezack!

  3. #15

    Re: Brillo pad

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    sixty7mustang22's Avatar
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    I would contact Autogeek about those. That shouldn't of happened at all with new pads. Cleaning them or not cleaning them after a couple of sections.

    If all you did was keep them on the painted surface and didn't catch any trim, then those are defective pads.

    You only need top spritz them with QD before their first use on each car.
    What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about???

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  4. #16

    Re: Brillo pad

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    I already contacted Autogeek and they said they would replace them if I provided pictures. I spritzed the orange pad during use in hopes that it would prevent the disintegration like what happened with the yellow pad.

  5. #17

    Re: Brillo pad

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    That pad disentergrated due to excessive product in the pad and high speed and pressure on the pad. I had a similar experience when using OHC and OP via UDM w/ a green/orange and white pad. I was using the machine mostly @ speed 6 and the pad was slowly collapsing in the center underneath the backing plate.

    I would recommend that the pad(s) be cleaned after every panel in a citrus based solution, i.e. snappy or the DP PAd cleaning product. At the last AutoGeek spring gathering a purchased a Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer and have been using it on every panel and it works beautifully!!! Ever since using the pad washer I've been able to use a single pad on my vehicle numerous times without any noticeable wear....

    Just making a suggestion as I've had a similar experience.

  6. #18

    Re: Brillo pad

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    Awesome, thanks for the advice!

  7. #19

    Re: Brillo pad

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    Saintlysins's Avatar
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    Wow ... how hard are you pressing?
    You have obvious, directional stretch/tearing marks on the pad. And those pads are pretty caked with product.
    Everyone's got their own technique, but you shouldn't be pressing down that much at all. A couple (to-several) pounds (+/-) or so of pressure is more than enough.
    The lines (left-to-right) visible on the hood are another sign of pressing too hard, even after the pad started to break-down and disintegrate. (Although there may be a lot of other reasons for that too ...).

    Follow the advice of how much product to use in the above posts and of course clean the pads often. Some advice I hope comes across positively ... don't buff as if you're taking a grinder to a rusted piece of sheet-metal, instead, pretend the car is made of window panes and if you press too hard, you'll break it. Firm steady pressure is all that's required.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Saintlysins; 12-18-08 at 01:29. Reason: needed correction
    SaintlySins

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  8. #20

    Re: Brillo pad

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    That's a great analogy. I've been asking around, trying to understand what is "medium pressure" vs "hard pressure". I definitely was trying to take a grinder to a rusted piece of sheet metal. I think it is bundled into my frustrations with my UDM. I'm about make the jump to rotary, I just need more performance. Part of the reason i was pressing so hard was that it took the brillo marks out faster.

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