2 passes with M105/Wool, no luck...

[PresdntialDtail]

Originally Posted by BuffMe

You might need to move to a yellow pad for a more aggressive combo that will put more heat into the paint than a wool pad will. I've cleared some pretty nasty stuff up on hard clear using that combo so be careful.

Hmm, maybe in the morning I will try to find a yellow foam. Zoom Zoom, where is this CMA place located??

[zoomzoom mazda5]

Classic Motoring Accessories, 7717 Anderson Rd , Tampa, fl 33634

[ABQDetailer]

I would pick up a different heavy compound while you are there. M105 isn't the end all of compounds. There have been a few C&B's where it didn't produce desired results. Every paint is a different challenge when you are seeking perfection.

Pick up a PTG while you're there!

Wish I could drive to CMA. Actually I'm glad I can't!

[Kevin Brown]

Since you've already got the M105 and the wool pad (plus plenty of others)...

Go ahead and try this:

1. Prime the pad THOROUGHLY.
Rub it in with your hand. It'll take a bit more than you're used to applying.

2. Apply a bead of M105 to the surface, pull it in, and polish at low speed (1000 rpm).
Try 2-3 passes, or until the M105 is just starting to dry.

3. Using a fine mist, spray the surface with water.
Do not add additional product- Just re-polish with what's already in the pad.

I think you'll see a 50% improvement in the cut, but you'll probably see an increase in swirling (it can be easily removed).

After trying this method (count it as one cycle), spur the wool pad (blow it clean with compressed air if you have it).

I won't PROMISE a better result, but I am pretty sure you're going to GET a better result.

[PresdntialDtail]

Originally Posted by iamwaxman

Since you've already got the M105 and the wool pad (plus plenty of others)...

Go ahead and try this:

1. Prime the pad THOROUGHLY.
Rub it in with your hand. It'll take a bit more than you're used to applying.

2. Apply a bead of M105 to the surface, pull it in, and polish at low speed (1000 rpm).
Try 2-3 passes, or until the M105 is just starting to dry.

3. Using a fine mist, spray the surface with water.
Do not add additional product- Just re-polish with what's already in the pad.

I think you'll see a 50% improvement in the cut, but you'll probably see an increase in swirling (it can be easily removed).

After trying this method (count it as one cycle), spur the wool pad (blow it clean with compressed air if you have it).

I won't PROMISE a better result, but I am pretty sure you're going to GET a better result.

thanks! I will definitely give that a try and let you know what kind of results I get.

[SuperBee364]

I haven't read the entire thread, so I apologize if someone's already said something similar...

M105 is a strong compound, for sure, but I wouldn't be afraid of a third application. Even a fourth. One thing to remember, is that even though 105 finishes very well, on very soft paints, it'll often times leave marks behind that *look* like RIDS.

Sooooo... here's what I would do.... On an area where you have already done two passes of 105, grab a zero bite foam pad, and do one application of Ultrafina. Now do an IPA wipedown of the area you just used UF on. Then *carefully* inspect the area. You may be surprised out of your socks; you might very well see a completely corrected and glossy surface. Soft paints will often look like they need another application of m105, when really all they need is one shot of UF to clean up what the 105 left and/or started. Now if this area *does* still look like it needs correction, go after it for one or possibly two more applications of 105, then hit it again with the UF. DON'T FORGET to always follow UF up with a very very thorough IPA or prepsol wipedown. That's the only way to really make sure it's not concealing. I'd almost be willing to bet you'll be at 90%+ correction at this point. Even if you're not, I wouldn't go anymore than four passes of 105 unless I had a PTG. Follow it up with UF, and you should be good to go.

On all the Hondas I've done 105 on, I've been successfully able to follow the 105 with UF. No three-step necessary, but if you want go for the ultimate, you could do another step with FPII.

I love doing Hondas now.... 105 and UF on that paint is one of those rare combinations that allow you to do a two-step to perfection.

Most of the time, an intermediate polish is needed between the 105 and UF, but not on Hondas. At least, IMHO, YMMV, void where prohibited, for external use only, keep away from flame, etc. etc.

I'm doing a black Acura right now as my final car for the year. I'm using 105 followed by UF, followed by FPII.

[JohnDeere]

m105 is a ten out of ten on the cut scale, a rep from megs says if used enough you can go through the clearcoat, a sign of little clearcoat left is a real glossy finish but little to no clarity or reflections, lesson to learn is ot to overpolish paint

[PresdntialDtail]

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

I haven't read the entire thread, so I apologize if someone's already said something similar...

M105 is a strong compound, for sure, but I wouldn't be afraid of a third application. Even a fourth. One thing to remember, is that even though 105 finishes very well, on very soft paints, it'll often times leave marks behind that *look* like RIDS.

Sooooo... here's what I would do.... On an area where you have already done two passes of 105, grab a zero bite foam pad, and do one application of Ultrafina. Now do an IPA wipedown of the area you just used UF on. Then *carefully* inspect the area. You may be surprised out of your socks; you might very well see a completely corrected and glossy surface. Soft paints will often look like they need another application of m105, when really all they need is one shot of UF to clean up what the 105 left and/or started. Now if this area *does* still look like it needs correction, go after it for one or possibly two more applications of 105, then hit it again with the UF. DON'T FORGET to always follow UF up with a very very thorough IPA or prepsol wipedown. That's the only way to really make sure it's not concealing. I'd almost be willing to bet you'll be at 90%+ correction at this point. Even if you're not, I wouldn't go anymore than four passes of 105 unless I had a PTG. Follow it up with UF, and you should be good to go.

On all the Hondas I've done 105 on, I've been successfully able to follow the 105 with UF. No three-step necessary, but if you want go for the ultimate, you could do another step with FPII.

I love doing Hondas now.... 105 and UF on that paint is one of those rare combinations that allow you to do a two-step to perfection.

Most of the time, an intermediate polish is needed between the 105 and UF, but not on Hondas. At least, IMHO, YMMV, void where prohibited, for external use only, keep away from flame, etc. etc.

I'm doing a black Acura right now as my final car for the year. I'm using 105 followed by UF, followed by FPII.

I do not have UF yet either, what is left is def not your typical marring from the M105 itself. The area definitely needs more correcting, I followed up with SIP/white not much better luck. I have a feeling this is just one of those cars where perfect is not reachable without removing too much clear but im gonna try a couple more avenues before I give up on it.

[PresdntialDtail]

Ok, just talked with the owner..may be bad bad news..parts of the car have been repainted. He says he does not know for sure, but the hood could have possibly been blended. What I am thinking now, is that they could have recleared over the existing swirls in the paint, therefore making it impossible to correct...

any opinions on what to do with this situation now?

[gmblack3a]

Originally Posted by JohnDeere

just wetsand and use turtle wax heavy duty rubbing compound, works for me on my ford escort

Whatever you do.....don't do this.

[JohnDeere]

that is pretty tricky to be honest, maybe remove 1 layer of clearcoat, again very tricky

[JohnDeere]

hey gm black, it was a joke, ok