Ask the Autogeek! Question & Answer Thread - Page 10

Matt@Autogeek · 04-06-09, 09:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbc123

Just wanted to see if you could recommend (in the sea of tons of products) your top pic for a Tire dressing that isn't overly shiny, and has good longevity once applied? Thanks, D

Poorboy's Bold 'N Bright and Optimum Opti-Bond

Matt@Autogeek · 04-06-09, 09:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyFive

Ok, another NewB question. I have my PC7424, MG 105, 205, KAIO and KSG. I have been reading for several weeks, different methods, etc.. but one thing I can't seem to find a definitive answer on is what to do between polishes? I'm new to machine detailing, used to buff my car out by hand, and in between a polish and a glaze, I'd rewash the car. Is this necessary? or just a wipe down with a MF and a QD?
Thanks in advance!

What do you mean? I just wipe it down with a microfiber, with or without QD...dampening the towel helps a bit. Usually after M105 and M205 the car is pretty dusty, so I'll rinse/wash it real good and get all the polish out of the cracks, dry it, then continue with my LSP.

Wknd Dtlr · 04-06-09, 04:08

Newbie here. First post ever!

What's the best pad to apply M21 v2? I am having trouble getting the pad to put the product on the paint as it seems to put some down but then seems to start absorbing it or buffing it. Over the weekend I used a ton of product before finally applying with a hand applicator. I was using the pc at 2 or 3. I could feel plenty of product in the pad. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to be using a different pad?

Process: wash, clay, swirlx. Used pc with black/grey ccs 5.5" pad. This is only the second time I have used this product and I really like it. It seems that it went down ok the last time I used it. I have washed the pad once already.

BTW, thanks for all the info I have gotten off this forum. I've been lurking for a while and finally broke down and bought a pc a few weeks ago to do our DD's. Very impressed with the results.

Matt@Autogeek · 04-07-09, 08:32

I prefer the gray LC pads...try using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer to lubricate the pad, and M21 will go a very, very long way.

Keep in mind that you should not actually be working the product in, just spread it over an area and move on.

Wknd Dtlr · 04-07-09, 09:26

Matt - thanks for the quick response.

I just checked my last two orders from your shop and it is the LC gray 5.5 CCS DA Pads pro so at least I have that part correct. In addition, I was not using any pressure as I was only trying to apply it. I have some Megs UQD so I will try priming it with that.

I am wondering if I damaged the pad when I washed it as it seemed to spread product ok the first time I tried it. The problem seemed not to be that the pad wasn't primed but more that each time I put product on the pad it would wick it into the pad.

I just ordered more pads from you last Friday. I'll try the new gray pad coming and see if the results are different. If so, then I know I need to figure out a better way to care for finishing pads.

Thanks again for your help.

sam08accord · 04-09-09, 08:15

This is my first post but not completely new to detailing i have a 2008 honda accord coupe and its nighthawk black pearl.

I have some swirls in my paint ( no surprise) but was wondering if some of the products i use are making this worse? ( if possible)

A list of my products:
-Turtle wax x ice- soap
-40 pack of microfiber rags (from costco)
-Meg's Ultimate quick detailer
-Black magic tire shine
-Eagle one wheel & glass cleaner.

If there is anything else you would recommend i am open to any suggestions...

I've never used a machine to buff my car i heard if done wrong this damage paint???...i wouldnt try it myself just yet.

Any help would be great. Thanks
-

IppoJ · 04-09-09, 12:29

I recently bought an '87 BMW 325is, it has aluminum bumpers with a black rub strip.
The black strip is a hard material, almost like bakelite but it is no longer black or smooth. What should I use to bring it back? Wurth trim paint? Forever Black?

The aluminum is a little hazy but I don't think I want to polish them and then have to maintain them. Is there a way to eliminate the haziness?

Thanks!

Matt@Autogeek · 04-10-09, 10:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wknd Dtlr

Matt - thanks for the quick response.

I just checked my last two orders from your shop and it is the LC gray 5.5 CCS DA Pads pro so at least I have that part correct. In addition, I was not using any pressure as I was only trying to apply it. I have some Megs UQD so I will try priming it with that.

I am wondering if I damaged the pad when I washed it as it seemed to spread product ok the first time I tried it. The problem seemed not to be that the pad wasn't primed but more that each time I put product on the pad it would wick it into the pad.

I just ordered more pads from you last Friday. I'll try the new gray pad coming and see if the results are different. If so, then I know I need to figure out a better way to care for finishing pads.

Thanks again for your help.

That's very odd...usually I need a bit of pressure to get a sealant to go a long way, so try that + prime the pad with UQD and you'll see a drastic difference.

Matt@Autogeek · 04-10-09, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam08accord

This is my first post but not completely new to detailing i have a 2008 honda accord coupe and its nighthawk black pearl.

I have some swirls in my paint ( no surprise) but was wondering if some of the products i use are making this worse? ( if possible)

A list of my products:
-Turtle wax x ice- soap
-40 pack of microfiber rags (from costco)
-Meg's Ultimate quick detailer
-Black magic tire shine
-Eagle one wheel & glass cleaner.

If there is anything else you would recommend i am open to any suggestions...

I've never used a machine to buff my car i heard if done wrong this damage paint???...i wouldnt try it myself just yet.

Any help would be great. Thanks
-

Costco towels are going to marr your paint. Get some good Cobra towels and use the Costco towels on wheels/doorjambs/etc. If you're using Eagle One A2Z, be careful and dilute it since it's strong stuff.

If you don't have a machine yet, I'd start by trying Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0 or SwirlX by hand, worked in thoroughly with a foam applicator.

I don't know much about the Black Magic stuff or the ICE wash, but the only stuff on that list I can say is great is Meguiar's Ultimate QD. I'd replace the other stuff with some P21S Wheel Cleaner, DP Auto Bath or Duragloss 901 soap, Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright, and some Cobra towels.

Matt@Autogeek · 04-10-09, 11:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by IppoJ

I recently bought an '87 BMW 325is, it has aluminum bumpers with a black rub strip.
The black strip is a hard material, almost like bakelite but it is no longer black or smooth. What should I use to bring it back? Wurth trim paint? Forever Black?

The aluminum is a little hazy but I don't think I want to polish them and then have to maintain them. Is there a way to eliminate the haziness?

Thanks!

There's no "cure" for bare aluminum, other than using a good sealant to keep it protected. Mask the surrounding areas, polish it once, wax it often and it will stay looking good for a long time. The most important thing about aluminum is keeping it clean and protected.

For the black parts, I'd go with Forever Black.

Wknd Dtlr · 04-10-09, 08:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt@Autogeek

That's very odd...usually I need a bit of pressure to get a sealant to go a long way, so try that + prime the pad with UQD and you'll see a drastic difference.

Well I tried priming the gray pad with UQD and had good results. However, I found out what the problem was. On a white car it is so hard to tell if you are applying a super thin coat if you don't have the lighting just right. At first I thought I was running into the same problem again but turns out I couldn't see it if I didn't have the lighting at the perfect angle. Once I found the "angle" it went a long way. White sure is a pain to work with as it is hard to see your work. Thanks again for the insight and for being patient with the "newbie"!

Migue · 04-12-09, 07:00

Hi there guys,i just bought a PC with Orange,White,Grey/Black,Blue and Red pads.

I also bought some XMT products ( XMT#1 Ultra Fine Swirl Remover, XMT#3 Intermediate S. Rmvr and XMT carnauba Finishing Glaze).

Would this be a good kit to start things off on a paint correction job? I'm pretty sure it is since i saw these products being use on your videos with really good results,i already have some experience with rotaries ( so I feel pretty confident about using a PC ) but it's been a while,i also have understanding of paint and scratch removal( I used to paint and do bodywork ) and I'm guessing if there's an imperfection that the PC and Orange pad can't take care of,a little bit of wetsanding should do the trick? and if it does should i go over it with the XMT#3 or #1 ???

Thanks a lot for your time.