Layer Zymol?

[CorruptedSanity]

( hoping everyone agrees to disagree- respectfully)

I just applied my second coat! Took me half as long because I kinda developed a method to applying it. I coat both my hands in warm wax, I then use my left hand to apply it to the car. Because I have 5 fingers, the first swipe/swab of my hand leaves more streaks/lines of wax then an even and flat coat. So I keep swiping my hands on the initial area of application downwards or upwards till its even, I then wipe my right hand (full of wax) on the car and use my semi-dry left palm to distribute it. This way the majority of wax on my hands doesnt transfer to the areas of the first 2~3 swipes of my palm.

Hope someone finds the above useful.

I learned from you guys that the wax sweats out the oils and hence a post-buff is needed. I noticed that say 10 minutes after applying and buffing a panel some sort of haze or powdery-like subtsance is on the car ( not uniformly all over) but on some areas. Im guessing that these are the areas where my buff of MF left the car. So the area where all the wax I initially buffed accumulated. Its not at all hard to get off, kinda tricky because just swiping at it relocates it. So I swipe it a lot and flip the Mf to the cleaner side.

Any comments on the above?

Im so excited to hit the 5th application!! (my tub of glasur is almost half way through )

[CorruptedSanity]

Any advice on how to apply field glaze?
Remember the surface of my car is warm, its not hot but neither is it cool.

[CorruptedSanity]

Originally Posted by calgarydetail

glasur works best applied one pannel at a time, so apply it to one plannel, remove, then move on.

as for ;layering, i have foun all the zymols work best when you follow these steps

1. apply wax
2. remove wax
3. allow to harden and cure for 3-4 hours (you will be able to notice the oils sweating out, the paint becomes less clear then when first applied)
4. After 3-4 hours field glaze the car, his will help remove the oils bringing back the shine as wel as it will help level the wax make it look better.
This step works best if you keep the field glaze in the fridge
5. The next day (althought you can do it now) apply a secon coat an follow the same steps.

hd-cleanse before the first coat only (ofcourse)

you will def notice a iffrencet in paint apperance with multiple layers of glasur....

let u sknow how it goes

Do you mean I have to wait 6~8 hours before applying field glaze? Or do you mean, apply coat, buff, wait 3~4 for it to cure, buff again then apply field glaze?

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

I really hate to get in on this, but I just gotta respond to this one...

Oh geez...me too (see below)..

Guys, we can sit here and argue this back and forth til we're all blue in the face. Without having degrees in chemistry, we will just sound like a bunch of kids arguing across the back yard fence..

Yeah, I'll probably come across just like some snotty kid who can't resist an Sigh.. But anyhow...

If you accept that beading and/or slickness can determine the health of a LSP, IMO testing for layering isn't all that hard:

Apply a coat of wax to a vehicle's (entire) hood. Wait the appropriate period of time (or employ some layering method such as spit-shining) and apply some more to half and repeat this wait-and-apply to that side of the hood a few time. Wait a while longer and apply once more to the entire hood. This will result in numerous "applications" on one half and only two on the other. The final whole-hood application will have equalized the starting time for both sides and the second application to the "two application" side will ensure thorough coverage.

Observe the hood and see if the one side beads/stays slick longer than the other. If so, then the product layers; if not, then it doesn't.

I do layer some products, but not others; if something doesn't layer I won't waste my time and effort. Based on this kind of testing, it's pretty obvious that some "waxes" do layer and some others don't...it's not subtle difference either, when the beading/slickness differences are a matter of weeks or even months.

Do the test and base your opinions on the results. I myself did the test a few times with certain products, with consistent results, so IMO I'd be an idiot to believe somebody else's opinion over my own first-hand experience. Just as anybody else would be an idiot to believe *me* instead of *their* own experience. But you gotta *have* that experience before you know first-hand

[calgarydetail]

Originally Posted by CorruptedSanity

Do you mean I have to wait 6~8 hours before applying field glaze? Or do you mean, apply coat, buff, wait 3~4 for it to cure, buff again then apply field glaze?

you do not have to wait 6-8 hours to use field glaze,

you have it down with the apply, buff, wait 3-4 hours to cure, then buff with field glaze

[lbls1]

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Oh geez...me too (see below)..




Yeah, I'll probably come across just like some snotty kid who can't resist an Sigh.. But anyhow...

If you accept that beading and/or slickness can determine the health of a LSP, IMO testing for layering isn't all that hard:

Apply a coat of wax to a vehicle's (entire) hood. Wait the appropriate period of time (or employ some layering method such as spit-shining) and apply some more to half and repeat this wait-and-apply to that side of the hood a few time. Wait a while longer and apply once more to the entire hood. This will result in numerous "applications" on one half and only two on the other. The final whole-hood application will have equalized the starting time for both sides and the second application to the "two application" side will ensure thorough coverage.

Observe the hood and see if the one side beads/stays slick longer than the other. If so, then the product layers; if not, then it doesn't.

I do layer some products, but not others; if something doesn't layer I won't waste my time and effort. Based on this kind of testing, it's pretty obvious that some "waxes" do layer and some others don't...it's not subtle difference either, when the beading/slickness differences are a matter of weeks or even months.

Do the test and base your opinions on the results. I myself did the test a few times with certain products, with consistent results, so IMO I'd be an idiot to believe somebody else's opinion over my own first-hand experience. Just as anybody else would be an idiot to believe *me* instead of *their* own experience. But you gotta *have* that experience before you know first-hand

...I believe you Accumulator buddy!!! Personal experiences say volumes!