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Old 05-16-08, 07:22   #1 (permalink)
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Tips on buffer trail prevention

I have gotten quite good at using my rotary however I am looking for some further tips to avoid buffer trails. I have been polishing with menzerna 85RD and 106ff using a Grey lake country pad at around 1200rpms. With this process I can get all the swirls and imperfections out of most moderate cars however on some soft paint black cars i sometimes notice new micro buffer trails and holograms. I keep my pads my pads moist and make 3 passes or so over the panel i am working on. Could it be that i am not working in the product enough or not making enough passes? I know these polishes break down as you work them in, eventually resulting in the least abrasive and subsequent smoothest finish.

I guess my main question is after your done polishing a section and you see some minor buffer trails do you re-apply the polish to the pad and do the panel again or do you just spray a little water on the existing pad and keep working the product in further until imperfections are gone? I just wanted fellow autopians opinions on how to prevent and remove these imperfections.

Thanks for any insight!
 
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Old 05-16-08, 07:34   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

Quote:
Originally Posted by Downgear View Post
I have gotten quite good at using my rotary however I am looking for some further tips to avoid buffer trails. I have been polishing with menzerna 85RD and 106ff using a Grey lake country pad at around 1200rpms. With this process I can get all the swirls and imperfections out of most moderate cars however on some soft paint black cars i sometimes notice new micro buffer trails and holograms. I keep my pads my pads moist and make 3 passes or so over the panel i am working on. Could it be that i am not working in the product enough or not making enough passes? I know these polishes break down as you work them in, eventually resulting in the least abrasive and subsequent smoothest finish.

I guess my main question is after your done polishing a section and you see some minor buffer trails do you re-apply the polish to the pad and do the panel again or do you just spray a little water on the existing pad and keep working the product in further until imperfections are gone? I just wanted fellow autopians opinions on how to prevent and remove these imperfections.

Thanks for any insight!

Lower speed for an extra 2-3 passes @ 800-1000 rpms.
 
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Old 05-16-08, 07:56   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

Try it without the pad moistening. Menzerna uses parafin based lubricants in PO106FF and PO85RD that typically don't play well with most QD's or water. They are very well lubricated products, even though they seem thicker and drier than most others. That's just the nature of the lubes they use. Using a new, dry pad, put a circle of polish on your pad, spread it evenly over the surface to be worked, then work it until the polish goes completely clear and very oily looking. This takes a while with a rotary, and even longer with a PC. I normally work 106 or 85RD for two minutes with a rotary. The time is just a SWAG, though, go by how the polish looks.

Edit: Also note that on the bottle of PO85RD, Menzerna recommends 1500-2000 RPM. I spread at low speed for two to three passes, bump it up to 1500 til it starts to clear out, then do two more at 1k.
 
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Old 05-16-08, 09:46   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

no pressure on the machine for the last passes at low speed.
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Old 05-16-08, 10:10   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

106ff or RD should be worked for at least a minute. 3 passes over the area sounds like you are not breaking it down all the way.
 
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Old 05-16-08, 01:10   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

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106ff or RD should be worked for at least a minute. 3 passes over the area sounds like you are not breaking it down all the way.
About what size is the area you polish?
 
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Old 05-16-08, 01:50   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention



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Old 05-16-08, 02:07   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

Thanks for the tips guys. From the sounds of things i was doing many things wrong that may have been leading to the odd buffer trail. I seem to notice them the most on the hood under the halogens and on a black s2000s LONG hood, its a pretty big area to see trails.

Firstly i am gonna try it on a completely dry pad with much longer work in times as i suspected could be the problem. I hope I didn't shave too much clear off during my last polish. I would see buffer trails and then reapply the polish to the pad and try again until they were mostly gone.
 
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Old 05-16-08, 02:14   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

Quote:
Originally Posted by Downgear View Post
Thanks for the tips guys. From the sounds of things i was doing many things wrong that may have been leading to the odd buffer trail. I seem to notice them the most on the hood under the halogens and on a black s2000s LONG hood, its a pretty big area to see trails.

Firstly i am gonna try it on a completely dry pad with much longer work in times as i suspected could be the problem. I hope I didn't shave too much clear off during my last polish. I would see buffer trails and then reapply the polish to the pad and try again until they were mostly gone.
I'm pretty sure you have pleny of clear coat on the car and I wouldn't sweat it. Just work the polish much longer (I probably make 10-15 passes over a 2.5 x 2.5 area, then throttle back and make a couple more).
 
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Old 05-16-08, 02:19   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

Scott and/or Todd, what backing plate are you guys using for the eight inch 3M blue waffle pad? Megs W66? My largest backing plate is too small for it.
 
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Old 05-16-08, 08:39   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

I've got the 6 (or is it 6.5) inch Porter Cable backing plate that came with the PC 7428 I bought used.
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Old 05-17-08, 02:10   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Tips on buffer trail prevention

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Originally Posted by Downgear View Post
..I seem to notice them the most on the hood under the halogens....
Huh, those must be some pretty severe ones; I usually have to inspect in natural sunlight to see 'em
 
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