What have you all found to be the longest lasting liquid carnuba?

[evenflow]

Can't go wrong with 845/CMW.

[Greg Nichols]

When people talk of durability how is that measured? How should one measure that, is there a standard? Guidelines? It seems to me that many of use a term but all have different standards for measuring it.

[itb76]

Originally Posted by Greg Nichols

When people talk of durability how is that measured? How should one measure that, is there a standard? Guidelines? It seems to me that many of use a term but all have different standards for measuring it.

Durability probably means slightly different things to different people. For me it means water still beads off the car's finish. Most durable wax I'd ever used was #26, but that's because that car sat inside all the time and was only driven a dozen times a year or so. It also had a newer paint job at the time.

[Greg Nichols]

Originally Posted by itb76

Durability probably means slightly different things to different people. For me it means water still beads off the car's finish. Most durable wax I'd ever used was #26, but that's because that car sat inside all the time and was only driven a dozen times a year or so. It also had a newer paint job at the time.

I too have thought this, however if I properly finish out a paint correction and apply NO lsp I can get great beading........so would that classify as durabilty.

I guess it might be nice to start a thread about terms we use and finding a common definition or understanding of some terms like: Durability, beading, depth, color, shine, etc.

Cheers,

[howareb]

I used Clearkote Carnauba Moose on a Cadilliac STS that is headed to Connecticut to deal with winter and pressure washer car washes. This should be a decent test of durability for Carnauba Moose. I am hoping to get at least three-four months out of it, but I will see the car again in another month or so to check.

The look is beyond fantastic!!!

[66#1]

Originally Posted by RedlineIRL

Would you happen to have any completed pictures of it that you could post up? My car is the same color red that is used on it.

Sorry for the late reply!

I didn't get any pics,but it looks good. I haven't seen it out in the sun,but it looked great under my parent's carport and at dusk. IW is only 12 bucks or so at Advance Auto Parts. I would definitely give it a shot.

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by Greg Nichols

When people talk of durability how is that measured?

-AND-

Originally Posted by itb76

Durability probably means slightly different things to different people...

I bet we'll never get a consensus on this one. To a great extent it's simply subjective, and there are a whole lotta subjects with a whole lotta different views.

IMO durability refers to how long any imparted characteristic of value remains at an acceptable standard.

With the characteristics and their measure both being in the eye/opinion of the beholder, opinions are simply gonna vary. But there oughta be *some* point at which we can agree- changes occur and are noticeable....slickness can only drop off so far before a panel just isn't "slick" any more; beads change from smaller to larger and from nearly-spherical to more irregular shapes, etc..

[jasonmac]

I like Collinite 476S over my sealants (Werkstatt AJ or 4* UPP x3-4) for winter, but for the other three New England seasons, I love the look of my P21S.

[itb76]

Originally Posted by Accumulator

I bet we'll never get a consensus on this one. To a great extent it's simply subjective, and there are a whole lotta subjects with a whole lotta different views.

IMO durability refers to how long any imparted characteristic of value remains at an acceptable standard.

With the characteristics and their measure both being in the eye/opinion of the beholder, opinions are simply gonna vary. But there oughta be *some* point at which we can agree- changes occur and are noticeable....slickness can only drop off so far before a panel just isn't "slick" any more; beads change from smaller to larger and from nearly-spherical to more irregular shapes, etc..

That's a good point. I found when I used FMJ, it looked great for a long time, but the beading was less durable (at a level that was what I wanted to see), and the slickness was gone in a week. Very different performance depending on what crteria are important to you.

Gerg Nichols brings up a good point too. I haven't driven without LSP in awhile, but after a good polish my 845 beaded better and lasts longer.

Something tells me I'll be ordering Carnauba Moose next time I place an order with Danase. Like I need to try another wax...

[ricka]

I find the carnuba durability question interesting since most apply it over a sealant. I use DG 501 then 105 then a carnuba after the 105 cures for 24 hrs. Figuring the 105 has pretty good durability, how does one know the carnuba is failing if the 105 still beads for 6 months?

I tend to realize the carnuba is failing more because of slickness. Carnuba is slicker than the sealant so if I can feel a slight grabbing, then I wax again...

Just my 2 cents.

[Distrbd]

I think in a near future people are either going to use carnauba waxes or sealants.no more worrying if the wax has solvents in it and whether the sealant is removed by them or not.carnauba waxes are great by themselves,so are sealants.Just my opinion.
This summer I'll only use waxes until winter then I'll switch to sealants.

[Accumulator]

ricka- Not sure if this will directly correlate to your combo, but when I was applying #16 over KSG the sealant didn't bead "properly" after the #16 degraded. I chalked that up to the degraded wax being a type of contamination on top of the sealant.

That doesn't mean an underlying sealant won't still be there, offering protection, after a wax topper is "dead" but I do think you'll want to do *something*.

FWIW, these days I don't top my sealants with carnauba, I just choose between the two types of LSP and use one or the other depending on the vehicle and how it's gonna be used.