8 Way Paint Sealant Test

[NSXTASY]

Originally Posted by gldetail

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.

I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

Hmm....something smells a little.......like....... ?

[GregCavi]

Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin

I've been using Z2 for almost 10 years. Learning curve or not, it does not apply easily.

For that matter, it doesn't always come off all that easily either.

I would be willing to bet that you're applying it to thick. I apply a thin line (spagetti noodle thin) on the applicator and can apply it to several panels at a time. If you apply to thick, it doesn't spread easily and doesn't completely wipe off.

Greg

[JuneBug]

David, I was looking at the Malco book and was wondering if you used that "poly" sealant? I have used their compound - Perfex with success and Polish - Nano Creme - with outstanding results, just never tried their sealers or waxes.

[TH0001]

Originally Posted by gldetail

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.

I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

Worst post ever...

FWIW, unless you are baking the teflon on, its not going to stick. Now take your BS and go somewhere else...

[TigerMike]

Originally Posted by TH0001

Worst post ever...

So true, lol. There are more holes (mistruths) in his statements than Swiss cheese! 100% Grade A, US inspected, FDA approved....garbage.

[KnuckleBuckett]

Originally Posted by TigerMike

So true, lol. There are more holes (mistruths) in his statements than Swiss cheese! 100% Grade A, US inspected, FDA approved....garbage.

I work with Teflon and Teflon derivitives daily. Teflon is flat out crap for protecting anything from the elements. It just will not bond to the surface requiring protection without extreme pressure and high temperatures. Teflon is an awesome material for thousands of uses, just not this one.

I agree the above statements are true. It is all hype and BS. Odds are that if it seals and or protects it is NOT the Teflon doing the work. At least not for very long.

BTW Teflon is on its way out. Expect it to be unavailable in the next decade or so.

[charger17]

Originally Posted by KnuckleBuckett

I work with Teflon and Teflon derivitives daily. Teflon is flat out crap for protecting anything from the elements. It just will not bond to the surface requiring protection without extreme pressure and high temperatures. Teflon is an awesome material for thousands of uses, just not this one.

I agree the above statements are true. It is all hype and BS. Odds are that if it seals and or protects it is NOT the Teflon doing the work. At least not for very long.

BTW Teflon is on its way out. Expect it to be unavailable in the next decade or so.

The Teflon isn't what is doing the protection. People think they are getting the same protection as on their cooking pan. That isn't the case. Teflon is solid. It needs to be melted onto the surface at extremely high temperatures to make a uniform film. That can't be done on paint. The temperature needed to melt it would ruin the paint. So, the manufacturers purchase the teflon in a suspension. Very small particles of it are suspended in a water/emulsion carrier. This is added to the sealant. So you aren't getting a uniform film, like your cooking pan, you are getting little dots of PTFE that lay on the surface of the paint. The chemical that is holding them in place and making a uniform "sacrificial" layer is the polymer (usually a charged silicone based polymer)

[KnuckleBuckett]

I kind of said that???

[David Fermani]

Originally Posted by VaSuperShine

I don't know what product was on your cheese shaped applicator but that appears to be enough to seal a few cars. Which one was it?

If I remember correctly, the product on that applicator was Jet Seal. I started out applying the same amount of each product on each separate pad(to avoid contamination). 1 product went on *really* easy, most went on normally easy and 2 were kind of a pain and needed additional product. As far as the amount of product applied, I guess it depends on which product you're applying to determine how much can or should be used. I've never seen a product that could seal "a few cars" with the tiny amount I applied. I don't see how that could be possible, even if you're using a PC (extended coverage). If a product could cover that much area, I'd be willing to bet you couldn't see the product going on the finish which could lead to untreated surface area or make it more tedious. It's just my thought. Because this was the 1st time using alot of these sealants, I played it safe and applied each one liberally. I don't think that would result in less durability.

Originally Posted by gldetail

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaminants.

I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

I only used Dawn for the initial wash to avoid any soap that could have interfered with the sealant application. Some sealant manufacturers advise doing this. I don't intend on using it again for maintenance washings.

As far as R2000, it doesn't contain Teflon, it contains ZONYL. It used to contain Teflon.

How do you measure durability / protection?

Originally Posted by JuneBug

David, I was looking at the Malco book and was wondering if you used that "poly" sealant? I have used their compound - Perfex with success and Polish - Nano Creme - with outstanding results, just never tried their sealers or waxes.

When I went into my local Malco store, I told them about my test and they offered a sample of their strongest sealant. It's the same product that dealers/shops apply and is warrantee by Malco. He poured the sample out of a gallon container & I didn't catch the name. I can get it for you if you'd like or send you a sample.

Originally Posted by charger17

The Teflon isn't what is doing the protection. People think they are getting the same protection as on their cooking pan. That isn't the case. Teflon is solid. It needs to be melted onto the surface at extremely high temperatures to make a uniform film. That can't be done on paint. The temperature needed to melt it would ruin the paint. So, the manufacturers purchase the teflon in a suspension. Very small particles of it are suspended in a water/emulsion carrier. This is added to the sealant. So you aren't getting a uniform film, like your cooking pan, you are getting little dots of PTFE that lay on the surface of the paint. The chemical that is holding them in place and making a uniform "sacrificial" layer is the polymer (usually a charged silicone based polymer)

Thanks for clarifying this. I know you know what you're talking about. I'd appreciate any more input on the test and/or judging the results you'd be willing to offer.

[LangMan37]

Originally Posted by gldetail

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.

I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

I apologize for the broke state of Michigan.

[Grouse]

Originally Posted by charger17

The Teflon isn't what is doing the protection. People think they are getting the same protection as on their cooking pan. That isn't the case. Teflon is solid. It needs to be melted onto the surface at extremely high temperatures to make a uniform film. That can't be done on paint. The temperature needed to melt it would ruin the paint. So, the manufacturers purchase the teflon in a suspension. Very small particles of it are suspended in a water/emulsion carrier. This is added to the sealant. So you aren't getting a uniform film, like your cooking pan, you are getting little dots of PTFE that lay on the surface of the paint. The chemical that is holding them in place and making a uniform "sacrificial" layer is the polymer (usually a charged silicone based polymer)

Similar is true with carpet and fabric protectants using a flourochemical bonding process.

[HRP]

Since I also have a silver car (among others), I'm quite interested in your long-term results.

6 or 7 years ago, a very similar comparison was shown on the Acura NSX forum. As I recall, the tester used an old red 1991 NSX hood which he cleand and striped into 9 squares. His chief interest was to see how the really expensive Zymol compared in looks and durability to the Zymol carried in most auto supply stores.

This test was an eye-opener. Initially, all 9 squares looked great, but after some time exposed to the weather, the most durable was not Zymol, but the old (pre-ZFX) Zaino Z-1 followed by Z-2. Since my Reatta was a very similar red, I tried Zaino and have become one of those Zaino-holics.

The website was: http://www.nsxsc.com/nsexcitement/waxtest.html
But it is apparently no longer a working link.

Please keep us posted with follow-ups. As well as your choice of carwash and whether or not you use qd's, and, if so, which ones.

Z-2 Pro and Z-CS are promoted as lasting at least 9 months; and if a "cow or a countess" can make it 9 months, I guess those of us on this forum can also. And we'd all like to know which is more durable.