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03-28-06, 06:00
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#1 (permalink)
| | Buff Guy
RAG is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,557 | Firm vs soft pads for PC I just got done experimenting on a black car after I had performed a three step rotary polish on it.
I like firm polishing pads for the PC (like the white SFX or the white Wolfgang ETS from AutoGeek), but have come to the realization that they leave micro-marring (visible when I do black vehicles). I always blamed the polish (which is a factor), but the biggest factor seems to be the pad. Even with a relatively mild polish like FP II and a firm polishing pad on a black vehicle, you can actually see the haziness made up of thousands of little gashes. I found that taking the Propel blue or white pad with FP II leaves a better finish for sure, but the trade-off is reduced aggresiveness and swirl removal ability. With OP and a firm polishing pad, the marring is really pronounced! | |
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03-28-06, 06:35
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#2 (permalink)
| | Waxophile Autojourno
Bence is offline
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Hungary, Europe Posts: 2,503 | I like firmer pads for the PC as well (spin better even with a little pressure; softer ones just jiggle), but I had absolutely no marring problems - especially with OP. | |
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03-28-06, 06:39
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#3 (permalink)
| | Registered User
wannafbody is offline
Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 5,636 | I have some semi-firm Nikota pads and I've noticed some micromarring-they work well at eliminating swirls tho-If I use them I follow up with a Megs Yellow pad
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2000 WS6 TA NBM
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03-28-06, 08:33
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#4 (permalink)
| | Now with twice the head
Scottwax is offline
Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Arlington, TX Posts: 25,509 | I use the firmer pads for swirl and defect removal, then switch to a softer pad for final buffing. I also find that softer, open cell pads like Propels work great for removing oxidation without clogging quickly with dead paint. | |
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03-29-06, 05:41
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#5 (permalink)
| | Buff Guy
RAG is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,557 | Scott...you have a great point on the open cell structure not getting clogged!
Bence...do you ever work next to Halogen lights...because I notice it time and time again when detailing black vehicles. Not to insult your detailing intelligence, as I'm sure you are as good as any of us. Though I can usually tell the difference in glossiness the sun, I have to look real closely with 1,000+ watt halogens to see the micro-marring.
Using one of the more "firm" white polishing pads, of the medium strength polishes I use frequently, I find that SSR 2 leaves he worst micro-marring, followed by Optimum Polish, SFX 2, #9, the FPII. OF course, #9 and FPII are not as strong as the others. Even with soft polishing pads, I notice VERY slight micro-marring with SSR2, OP, and SFX...but not with #9 or FPII. Frankly I think all of these polishes finish down better with a rotary and live a glossier finish, but on black (about half the vehicles I do), but lately I like to touch up with a PC to ensure no chance of halograms showing up...but this is when I started noticing the micro-marring/slight haziness. Like anything, it's all a trade-off. | |
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03-29-06, 06:26
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#6 (permalink)
| | Registered User
MattZ28 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Palm City, FL Posts: 1,398 | I prefer the firmer pads myself, and I mist them with water or QD to "season" them.
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'96 Camaro Z28 LT1/4L60E
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03-29-06, 06:46
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#7 (permalink)
| | Waxophile Autojourno
Bence is offline
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Hungary, Europe Posts: 2,503 | Quote: |
Originally Posted by RAG Bence...do you ever work next to Halogen lights...because I notice it time and time again when detailing black vehicles. Not to insult your detailing intelligence, as I'm sure you are as good as any of us. Though I can usually tell the difference in glossiness the sun, I have to look real closely with 1,000+ watt halogens to see the micro-marring. | Yes, 2×500W halogens... But I'm working the polishes very slowly. | |
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