Is #80 proper for by-hand application?

[zimmerDN]

As the question says... is it? I have light swirl marks and scratches on a 1 year old car that's never been waxed.

[Scottwax]

Sure, but make sure you use a folded terry cloth towel to apply it. Foam hand pads are not thick enough and the finger pressure will leave marring. Refold the towel for each section you work and make sure you work it long enough to clear out. If you can easily remove the excess, you worked it long enough. If you cannot remove the excess easily, you need to work it more.

[zimmerDN]

Someone also recommanded 1ZPP, which would you use?

Can I tape two pads together and use it that way? What do you mean to work it long enough to clear out... more detail please.

[John Styrnol]

#80 is a SOB to remove by hand. I'm sure you will go over and over and over the vehicle.

[Accumulator]

I find PP a bit stronger abrasive-wise compared to #80 but I find #80 hides remaining marring better. IMO they're both easy enough to use by hand. You can pretty much take your pick. If it's a dark color, or if you're likely to have marring left over after you polish, I'd probably go with the #80. But I have, and use, both and IMO you won't go wrong either way.

I use a MF instead of terry, but ScottWax has plenty of experience to back up his choice of terry so take your pick on the choice of applicator too.

The "clear it out" means that when you've worked #80 long enough to break down the abrasives it'll turn clear (or on odd, rare occasions *pink* ), which is quite different looking than it's original brown-olive color. Watch for when the color disappears, that's when you quit working it. (Scott- Hope you don't mind my answering this as I was posting anyhow)

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by John Styrnol

#80 is a SOB to remove by hand. I'm sure you will go over and over and over the vehicle.

I'm sure not gonna about what you experienced, but I never found it all that bad....I assume you only used as much as necessary and worked it until it was clear. I found the residue was sorta like that of Meg's "pure polishes", which *can* be a bit tricky to remove sometimes, but it wasn't a pain like #7 can be. Wasn't quite as easy as #5 either, though.

I always do #80 a panel at a time (whether by hand or machine), if that matters. And I get a new/fresh MF from time to time as they can load up with the residue.

[John Styrnol]

I don't have to worry anymore, I will never use that stuff again, LOL The bottle I got it was a green in nature color.

[Accumulator]

John Styrnol- Yeah there are a bunch of products that others swear by that *I* swear *at* Just gotta find what works for *you*

[zimmerDN]

So I #80 will clean up and remove those minor scratches I have on my car? I need to apply it and keep rubbing until it's worked in and its clear. Then let it haze and remove?

You ppl suck haha, getting me all confused about which product to use. I also bought ScratchX, is that too abrasive (for removing deeper hairline scratches and paint left behind by other cars)?

[Accumulator]

Yeah, I bet we do make it confusing with all our different experiences and opinions!

With the #80, you don't really have to let it haze, you can just work it until it's clear and wipe it off even if it's still a little damp. Shouldn't really matter either way as the abrasives break down to next to nothing, leaving only polishing oils. Just work it until it's clear, that's only real trick.

For the paint transfers from other cars, I almost *always* just use clay. The Scratch-X should be fine for your RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratches).

[dogma]

I love #80 by PC or hand. It was the best I used until ZPC.

[Scottwax]

FWIW, #80 wipes off more easily with a terry cloth towel than with an MF towel.