Poorboys SSR2.5

Corey Bit Spank · 08-24-04, 06:51

Poorboy's Super Swirl Mark Remover SSR2.5

When you pour SSR2.5 out of the bottle one thing you will notice is that it is thicker then Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish. SSR2.5 has the consistancy of, well, cake frosting I suppose. This thickness causes it to spread a little less easily on the surface. No huge problem with this--you just have to use a little more product. This would be a problem with DACP, as adding more product means you have to work it more--but I'll get into how long it takes for SSR2.5 to break down.

Initial cutting is slightly more agressive than DACP. SSR2.5 breaks down much more quickly. Within two passes (one parallel horizontal, and one parallel vertical), SSR2.5 is already done with any cutting it would be able to do, and it's polishing agressiveness is diminished. Another 2 passes and it turns clear and you're done. Just think slightly less agressive SSR3 and you're on the right track.

Is how fast it breaks down a good thing? I'd say when removing swirls and general contamination--yes, it's very good. It allows the user to work quicker. However, when targetting a scratch with the PC, you'd be better using DACP. SSR2.5 just breaks down much too quickly to be immensely useful on minor scratches.

It cleans better than DACP. Ironically, I have noticed DACP lacks much cleaning ability. It's hard to really test this on a clear coated car, but my pad turned darker--which it should, the car hadn't been done with clay OR DACP since last november.

SSR2.5 Leaves a slick surface--somewhat oily. It does break down a bit more overall than DACP, but I would still use something less agressive in between this and a wax/sealant to bring reflectivity/wetness up. Overall, it was a pretty reflective surface, and I could tell I was doing something under flourscent lighting and on a silver/gold car (my car, for reference).

If I had to choose one product: DACP or SSR2.5 I would take the 2.5. DACP is a weird product for me. I either work it too long and waste time, or work it too little and don't get the results that I should. There's no question of how long it will take 2.5 to break down--you know what it's doing 100% of the time. Maybe it's because you don't have to take 5 or 6 passes with it.

It smells like bubble gum.

beanbag · 08-25-04, 04:16

Thanks for the review. How does it react to having some water misted on the pad? I'll probably get a bottle of this when my 3M Machine Polish runs out.

SVR · 08-25-04, 04:19

yesterday I was using PB 2.5 by hand after Farecla G10 extra fine and although it was a piece of cake to take off, I had to use a damp MF applicator pad to apply it. Worked wonders however

Then I finished off with AUTOGLYM O1B finishing polish
This stuff was so hard to apply, with either cloth or MF pad. It kept evaporating. I might switch to dinitrol 7020 polish instead.
Removal was also a problem.

samhian · 08-25-04, 05:27

SVR, when you were using 2.5 by hand, how did you use it? Did you apply it with back and forth motions until the product turned clear or did you let it haze and then wipe clean?

Corey Bit Spank · 08-25-04, 12:14

Quote:

Originally posted by beanbag
Thanks for the review. How does it react to having some water misted on the pad? I'll probably get a bottle of this when my 3M Machine Polish runs out.

Very well. Actually, I had some drips of whater from when I washed still, and I figured heck, why not.

DACP + Water=you get to work even harder.

SSR2.5 + Water= spreads a little easier.

Actually, by the end, I was misting the pad with one spray of QD. Worked very well.

SVR · 08-25-04, 04:10

Used back and forth motions and did half of the car. Took it off and same process for last half
There are no real instructions for doing it by hand.
Should I put it on one panel and remove or do the whole or half the car and then remove

I'm using it again today on my new AU Falcon XR6 and will be following with Farecla Black top hand glaze, Omikron Bodyseal, 12 coats of Klasse SG and 2 of wolgang dgps
Sound extreme? This is my show car.

Corey Bit Spank · 08-25-04, 04:24

Quote:

Originally posted by SVR
Used back and forth motions and did half of the car. Took it off and same process for last half
There are no real instructions for doing it by hand.
Should I put it on one panel and remove or do the whole or half the car and then remove

I'm using it again today on my new AU Falcon XR6 and will be following with Farecla Black top hand glaze, Omikron Bodyseal, 12 coats of Klasse SG and 2 of wolgang dgps
Sound extreme? This is my show car.

Work it back and forth until it clears up. Wipe off immediately, move to the next panel.

SVR · 08-25-04, 04:39

Cheers corey. This will save me valuable time over the next two days. The car is getting my level 7 concourse details. It's in great shape. The paint has some swirls and minor fallout so I'll get rid of them. my standards on paint refinishing are extremely high

Before and after shots coming soon

deadaccount · 08-25-04, 09:38

Do you find an improvement with 2 or 3 passes of SSR2.5?

Corey Bit Spank · 08-25-04, 09:48

Quote:

Originally posted by SVR
Cheers corey. This will save me valuable time over the next two days. The car is getting my level 7 concourse details. It's in great shape. The paint has some swirls and minor fallout so I'll get rid of them. my standards on paint refinishing are extremely high

Before and after shots coming soon

Your problem may be that you just didn't work the product enough. I didn't use it by hand, if you want I can try a test panel on my friend's car and see what results I get and if I can find any ways of getting it to work better, but really I think without doing it you should be fine, as long as you work it a lot. Dont' just apply it, wait for it to haze, and wipe it off, really work the abrassives into the paint and break them down.

I didn't have to do a panel more than once on my car--in the future maybe.

SVR · 08-26-04, 03:54

Cool. I'll do that. Paint is prepped ready for the SSR. The claybar was put into hard labour after the fallout removal wash and prepsol step to remove all the wax buildup and some grease on the bottom of doors.

The surface was really rough, it felt really grainy.
So tomorrow is the big day, got heaps to do besides paint. all door jambs need extra fine cut and PB EX-P, polish glass with autosmart then klasse them twice, citra force and blue magic interior clean and protection, lubricate door seals, clean and forever black the trim.

tumbler · 08-26-04, 02:36

Quote:

Originally posted by Corey Bit Spank
Poorboy's Super Swirl Mark Remover SSR2.5

However, when targetting a scratch with the PC, you'd be better using DACP. SSR2.5 just breaks down much too quickly to be immensely useful on minor scratches.

I agree.. but that is why I use SSR3.5 as a substitute