#20 provided better protection than Zaino.... - Page 7

Mike Phillips · 07-22-03, 05:22

Quote:

Originally posted by 2wheelsx2
Don't want to be jumping on the bandwagon, but was there a recall on this product then? I have one of the plastic tubs also. The results have been ok, but not as good as what I have seen with the liquid. Would I be able to contact Meguiar's for an exchange? Mine is about 90% full.

I don't remember anything like this taking place. The problem may have been hit/miss.

I'll check tomorrow, the guy in charge of things like this isn't here today.

Mike

jgv · 07-22-03, 05:26

It happens in the auto industry..... when there's a problem with the mfg the client shouldn't have to pay for it, so the recalls...

Intermezzo · 07-22-03, 05:41

Mike, I thoroughly enjoy reading every one of your posts! It's probably not my place to say this, but I think your knowledge and contributions are a substantial asset to Autopia.

I've used #26 (in liquid form) before on a black car and it's a very easy product to use. Apply a thin layer and the product dries in a matter of minutes. Removal was also relatively effortless, leaving a nice, deep shine.

Mosca · 07-22-03, 08:05

This is truly fascinating. It's where chemistry and engineering intersect with cars, art, beauty, and craft.

Part of "finding a product you like" is having confidence in it; Mike, you've given me confidence in #20 and #26.

Part of a product "working for one person and not another" is proper technique; what I find instinctive and intuitive as a process, might be perfect for one product and disastrous for another. Thanks, Mike, for the tutorial on how to achieve success with products tnat some of us may find to be a bit balky. Perhaps using MF towels to remove it contributes to my perception of Gold Class Wax as not being especially durable. (Mike, would it be too forward of me to ask you to say a few words about Gold Class, other than to mention its sheeting qualities? I find it to be a curious product. It's not what Megs would call a "pure wax", is it? I'd call it a high end cleaner/wax. But, I don't know that.)

Thanks, Mike, for the insight into Meguiar's reputation in the industrial world. My father spent his entire life as a chemical engineer for Pennsylvania Industrial Chemical Co, which became a division of Hercules Inc. My brother and I both worked in the plant, in production, and we got first-hand knowledge of how mixing huge batches of chemicals is as much an art and craft as it is a science, more akin to brewing beer than to anything else. Occasionally an entire run of product was broken up and turned into fuel oil when it didn't meet spec; not very often, thankfully (I was one of the guys with the sledges, breaking up the 55 gal drums of hardened resin). Who knows, perhaps some of our raw materials eventually found their way into your waxes and polymers and mold releases!

Tom

theveed · 07-22-03, 08:10

I'm not knocking on Z either, but on my car I really use it as a guinea pig, I applied half of my hood with Z and half with KSG before and left it out without washing for a full week with acid rain, bird poop and other stuff, the Z side consistently left more watermarks than the K side (both 3 coats)... One of our client had 9 coats of Z and a fresh bird bomb etched right through...

Deanski · 07-22-03, 08:41

I'm one to admit when I have made an error.

At one point I stated that I smelled a "current" version of #20. That was incorrect, as it was the older and I do mean much older bottle that one store had laying around. The label was wrong, it had the older label on it, which I did not pay attention to.

I may still have my gallon of old #20 around, and I know I still have Acid Rain CC and Clearcoat conditioner as well. You're right as to odor of Acid Rain, smells like Denteen and liked that it was thick.

As for testing it Mike, years ago, and I'm taking in the 80's or early 90's, we had an issue with #20 and a very high-end Ferrari owner who wanted a poly sealant after reading reviews on them. Being a Megs fanatic and a big supporter of the products, we chose to use it. Prep was as standard, wash, clay, polish. Problem was it streaked. Changed to new applicators, same problem. It was isolated to a bad gallon of #20. We stripped the #20 off of the finish and went back to #26 for then as the owner was not happy at all. It went to litigation, which we won anyway. At that time I had two gallons tested.

Now as for todays paints, I own a new Lexus SC430 and can tell you that the paint finish is not as durable as my previous 2001 Lexus. Not a daily driver and only on a small parkway, I sustaned stone chipping in more that 3 areas; hood, side mirrors and air-dam. Lexus is known for the quality of paint finishing technique they use on all the cars, but something is very different.

The whole comment on #20 was not to subject others in thinking it was inferior, but to explain my actions and reactions as to the product.

I still use Meguiars products today. The PC I have came with your top level kit of all the products ( Medallion, #7 #9, and others) which I still use once in awhile.

I love DACP, #34, #40, #9, #3. I'm not too thrilled with Engine Kote as it seems to produce small wax beads on some surfaces in the engine bay with a high quality sprayer. I then switched to a foam paint brush to apply it more evenly. I still use it, but keep it for wheel wells and undercarriage for now.

It's nice to see an individual that will defend its companies products, but the post was not to start a "bash this product" but more of a discussion of what happened, why it happened and resolution.

Too bad that their are no other mfg reps that can contribute to this forum so the facts are correctly stated.

One item that ALWAYS comes up is the abrasive levels of polishes. Maybe you can list the order from most aggressive to least and what it can be used for. Yes we CAN get most of this info off the Meguiars site, but a brief synopsis would be nice.

I'm composing this on the fly, as I did not have the time you had to respond, so if I am missing anything I apologize.

I have a company car (98 white Ford Escort Wagon) that could be a test subject for #20 one day, as it sees all sorts of daily driving and use.

Just so you can see what I've done, you can see my current vehicle, a red Lexus SC430 here: My SC430

Now back to more positive things and if I have misled anyone here, I apologize and do not want people to think it was shear bashing, just IMO.

You have a nice day,

Regards,
Deanski

4DSC · 07-23-03, 12:02

Hmm, like 2wheelsx2 I also have the "plastic jar" version of #26 (not surprising given our locations). I am curious, what kind of performance deficiencies may have occured due to this problem you describe?

Is it just difficulty with application? I'm not too clear on this after reading this thread. I also found #26 not terribly easy to use (application) and have shelved mine ever since discovering S100.

dookiebob · 07-23-03, 12:34

Quote:

Originally posted by Deanski

One item that ALWAYS comes up is the abrasive levels of polishes. Maybe you can list the order from most aggressive to least and what it can be used for. Yes we CAN get most of this info off the Meguiars site, but a brief synopsis would be nice.

YES! Please comment on this

BTW, thanks Mike for all the info so far. I may try #20 now after all...

-Bob

rek · 07-23-03, 07:28

I'm thinking the "Plastic Jar" syndrome has something to do with difficulty in removing the product. The first jar I got, was hard to remove. I thought it must be how I was using it. The next one I got, came off OK...I thought ,Now I know what I'm doing. Now , after the "Insider information" I think it was the product, because I really haven't changed the way I used it....Small ammount, rubbed in till it's almost gone, final buff... What say you Mike?

Mike Phillips · 07-23-03, 03:46

Quote:

Originally posted by Deanski

One item that ALWAYS comes up is the abrasive levels of polishes. Maybe you can list the order from most aggressive to least and what it can be used for. Yes we CAN get most of this info off the Meguiars site, but a brief synopsis would be nice.

Regards,
Deanski

Did he say,

a brief synopsis

Mike Phillips · 07-23-03, 03:50

Quote:

Originally posted by rek
I'm thinking the "Plastic Jar" syndrome has something to do with difficulty in removing the product. The first jar I got, was hard to remove. I thought it must be how I was using it. The next one I got, came off OK...I thought ,Now I know what I'm doing. Now , after the "Insider information" I think it was the product, because I really haven't changed the way I used it....Small ammount, rubbed in till it's almost gone, final buff... What say you Mike?

I don't think rubbing it in until it's almost gone is a good idea.

I would apply a thin, even coating, working the product in well.

Allow to dry/cure, 15 to 20 minutues and then remove with a big, soft, fluffy, clean, 100% cotton terry cloth towel.

IF you want to use a microfiber, use it after the terry cloth towel to do what microfibers are so good at and that's removing the finest of left over residues from the surface.

How does that sound?

Mike Phillips · 07-23-03, 03:57

Quote:

Originally posted by Mosca
Mike, would it be too forward of me to ask you to say a few words about Gold Class, other than to mention its sheeting qualities? I find it to be a curious product. It's not what Megs would call a "pure wax", is it? I'd call it a high end cleaner/wax. But, I don't know that.)

Tom

I will put something together on this. Something as interesting as I can make it (and accurate too)

However, it will contain the details, (no pun intended), on the science behind “Water Sheeting”. But, I will have to wait for the chemist to which I will refer this to, to return from a project”.

How’s that?