In praise of FK1000P - Page 3

Cleaning Fool · 10-14-09, 06:51

I started using 1000p on my exterior glass, works very well. I've never had an issue removing 1000P and I've let it sit 30 minuts or longer several times, although I always use my PC and white 4 inch pad to apply, making sure I spread it thin and even.

SuperBee364 · 10-14-09, 09:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by loco

Thanks for the info, SuperBee! Don't take this the wrong way, but it kinda makes me feel better to read that you had a problem with 1000P recently. LOL! I was feeling a bit lonely over here.

I hear ya, man.. I hate it when it seems like I'm the only one having problems with a certain product, and that happens all the time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by khjr

Hmmmm. Food for thought. Is this a risk even after waiting 24 hours, or waiting a week or more?

Does this happen with other products?

I had a similar experience with Klasse last week, when I washed the car and detailed it with Sonus Acrylic Spritz. Immediately afterward, I tried to apply a layer of polycharged Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it really felt as if the applicator was removing product, almost as if the Spritz either didn't fully dry (it was getting chilly last weekend) or that it started to dissove one of the previous coats of SG and/or Sonus that I had laid on a week earlier.

Generally, I find the polycharged Klasse REALLY easy to use, even after detailing with the Spritz. This was the first time I've had issue, perhaps due to cold weather...

IMO, yeah, it's a concern no matter how long you wait, really. The solvents that are in your LSP are there because they are *solvents*, and keep the LSP from getting hard. They will also turn your hard LSP back into it's soft, squishy form if they get a good chance to do so, especially pure 'nubas. If a chemical is a solvent to a wax one time, it'll be a solvent to that wax over and over again. Some sealants do seem to actually "cure", though, in a way that is *similar* (but not the same) as epoxy; once they cure, it's really hard to find a solvent that will then work on them.

It seems like some LSP's are more susceptible to re-exposure to solvents than others.... a good example of a susceptible LSP is 1000P, and a less susceptible would be Collinite 476... once that stuff has hardened, even it's own solvents aren't particularly good at removing it (don't ask me how I know that

). Regardless, I think it's good practice to always use minimal pressure when applying second and subsequent coats of whatever LSP you're using, and it certainly can't hurt to wait as long as you can between applications.

Accumulator · 10-15-09, 10:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

..For a great demo of the solvent effect, try this... quick experiment, and you'll see how easy it really is to disturb the base coat unless you are very gentle when applying added layers.

Good thinking!

Quote:

It seems like some LSP's are more susceptible to re-exposure to solvents than others.... a less susceptible would be Collinite 476... once that stuff has hardened, even it's own solvents aren't particularly good at removing it

Now if I could just figure out what causes the occasional pseudo-hologram/solvent effect with 476S

When that happens it's *SUCH* a PIA to resolve...topping with 845 seems to be the quickest/simplest solution.

When it *does NOT* happen, yeah, cured 476S is *cured* but then it does....

SuperBee364 · 10-15-09, 10:42

Yeah, that 476 is some strange stuff. The pseudo grams drive me bonkers, but like you, I've found a coat of IW takes care of it no problem.

whis9 · 10-16-09, 03:52

How do you buy from this company? Their website you can never order from

tom p. · 10-16-09, 04:42

I think you can order from Autogeek now. You can also telephone Finish Kare and order from them directly.

WhataVUE · 10-16-09, 05:42

There is always this guy too. FYI: New FK distributor
On a couple other forums I recently joined he has been getting really good reviews for CS. I think there maybe something else on here too..

EDIT: here is the post #137 for autopian experience, hoep it helps

Daniel3507 · 10-18-09, 07:19

Could you use it on brushed aluminum wheels to protect them?

Greg Nichols · 10-18-09, 07:22

^^^YES you can

loco · 11-16-09, 09:34

Just wanted to update this since I finally got a chance to add that second layer of 1000P to my car today. Thanks to all your tips and advice, I believe I've finally figured this product out!

I applied a very thin layer and just did not wait nearly as long to wipe it off. It's pretty cool and dry here today and the 1000P started hazing up after only a minute or two. So, I did a panel, waited just a minute or so 'til it just began to haze, and wiped it off. No problems removing it at all!

I love this stuff and now that I have my application technique down, it's a huge relief. Thanks to everyone for the help!

Accumulator · 11-16-09, 10:01

loco- You might like it even better when you subsequently wash the car, good dirt-shedding.

RdRover · 11-16-09, 11:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

It seems like some LSP's are more susceptible to re-exposure to solvents than others.... a good example of a susceptible LSP is 1000P, and a less susceptible would be Collinite 476... once that stuff has hardened, even it's own solvents aren't particularly good at removing it (don't ask me how I know that

). Regardless, I think it's good practice to always use minimal pressure when applying second and subsequent coats of whatever LSP you're using, and it certainly can't hurt to wait as long as you can between applications.

Slightly off the main topic but I just have to ask. Would this mean that a paste have less solvents than a liquid making it more suited for laering? Still would have to be gentle during the subsequent applications.