In praise of FK1000P - Page 2

Rob Tomlin · 10-13-09, 06:38

I will add to the chorus: apply it thinly and evenly, and don't let it dry too long and you will not have any problems with removal.

Jester7677 · 10-14-09, 04:30

As someone suggested, I do 1-2 panels at a time, thin, and remove. Basically apply for 10 minutes, wipe off, repeat.

Prior I also polished, then glazed with DWG, then the FK1000p. Waited a day, applied FK1000p again.

loco · 10-14-09, 05:16

Thanks guys. I think I just let it sit too long. For some reason, I thought it needed to dry for 20-30 minutes before removing. Can't wait to add another layer and see how it goes this time!

mobenzowner · 10-14-09, 05:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by STSInNYC

Re cure time...there was a recent post indicating that "JJ", the owner/an exec with FK, had told the member that 1000P needs 24-48 hours of cure time (eg. dry) before another coat is applied.

Certainly not going to contradict you, but some of the experienced fk1000p users on this forum have stated a need of only 20 minutes of cure time before applying another coat. I have done this myself with no apparent problems, but no way to know if I got max value from second coat by not waiting longer?

Accumulator · 10-14-09, 09:45

I found that even after a ~24 hour wait, I had to be a littel careful to avoid an apparent solvent-effect, which I interpreted as detrimental to layering.

Right off hand, a few months after the fact, I can't recall/explain what made me think that something was going haywire with my layering efforts, but I *did* absolutely get that impression at the time.

VERY gentle application seemed to be the answer, but having heard both sides of the how-long-to-wait debate I decided to wait as long as I do with KSG.

OTOH, I've tried waiting short periods when applying to wheels, and I never noticed any problems from doing that. But doing that, I never got the sort of durability on my wheels that layered (with ~24 hour waiting) KSG gives me either.

Funny that people are thinking that waiting to buff off the residue makes things *harder*

I'd do the whole Yukon XLD before buffing any of it off (black plastic trim excepted) and I never noticed any problems. If anything, I like to wait *longer* to buff off any sealant (except for when I'm using it on trim).

NSXTASY · 10-14-09, 10:00

Similar to Accumulator's observation, I have no problems with a couple layers back to back. However, I see better durability with applications that are spaced a wash apart as opposed to three consecutive applications.

**Thee most important tip with 1000P is to load the applicator JUST right and apply THIN. Let dry and cure until it passes the swipe test with ease. Apply two super thin coats, a faint trace is enough. Buffs off like butter and doesn't stain trim.

Accumulator · 10-14-09, 10:32

Yeah, it's hard for me to verbalize...but it's like trying to very gently wipe the subsequent layers on top of the existing ones. JUST ENOUGH contact to transfer some product to the surface. And properly priming/loading the applicator seems critical for this.

Between LSP applications like this and the KBM polishing, maybe the importance of putting the product on the pad properly will start getting its fair share of attention.

Yeah#2, trim staining withFK1000P seems to result mostly from excessive product getting built up in the texture of the trim. This can get to be a little of an issue when trying to layer heavily too, as it seems more likely to happen after a few layers than it did with the first couple (same application technique). Perhaps its from a slight build up of unbuffed product, just enough that you don't notice it until it gets severe enough to be a (hopefully minor) issue.

Greg Nichols · 10-14-09, 10:34

Adding my opinion:

Apply the first coat with a no bite pad using a DA will help get it thin, in addition the mild heat seems to help it bond to the paint bettter.

I have NEVER had a problem buffing off 1000P, in fact I have missed spots and found them 12 hrs later and they still removed easily. Temps in the 70's not in direct sunlight.

I have found that waiting a day to apply another coat helps, it really helps if the car is exposed to sunlight during that time vs garaged. I dont have direct test results for this just my experiences. Seems that the solvents off gas faster and cross linking better.

3 coats for the winter is ideal. Here in Utah I don't get many days I can personally wash my cars so I have to use touchless systems. These chemicals are typically much harsher and 1000P seems to reduce in time, but it lasts the 5 months I need it to. I'm sure it would last longer if I did not use the touchless systems chemicals.

Cheers,
GREG

tom p. · 10-14-09, 11:47

I think the problem comes in when the FK1000p is left to cure for too long. I'll agree with the 10 min rule. Beyond that it can be far more challenging.

I'll also agree with Accumulator on waiting 12 or 24 hours prior to any subsequent layers.

I'm coming right up to the 6 month mark with my daily driver. The product has held up well, paint still looks great. However, I am starting to get some contaminant bonding that doesn't simply wash off. Well, it's fall time and the car is due

SuperBee364 · 10-14-09, 02:39

As I mentioned in another thread, I've never had problems removing 1000p haze until a couple days ago. Until then, I had always used a DA buffer an no bite pad for application of *the first coat*. I did the first coat by hand the other day, and had a seriously tough time removing the haze, especially where it was a bit thick. I don't wait any set amount of time prior to removal, I go by the swipe test. In cooler conditions, I've had to wait hours before removal, with no problems.

Applying the first coat with a DA definitely helps make haze removal easier. And as a lot of other guys have said, subsequent layers shoula be applied as *gently* as possible, by hand.

For a great demo of the solvent effect Accumulator talked about, try this... Apply a coat of 1000p to the outside of your rear windshield, let it cure, then remove the haze. Unload the pad of product by applying it some where til it leaves no residue. Now take tha same pad and rub gently on the glass where the previously applied 1000p is. You'll see (and feel) the pad lift the product up and re-deposit it. Now if you were actually using a pad loaded with product (putting on a second coat) this effect would be harder to catch. But try this quick experiment, and you'll see how easy it really is to disturb the base coat unless you are very gentle when applying added layers.

loco · 10-14-09, 04:14

Thanks for the info, SuperBee! Don't take this the wrong way, but it kinda makes me feel better to read that you had a problem with 1000P recently. LOL! I was feeling a bit lonely over here.

khjr · 10-14-09, 04:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Now take tha same pad and rub gently on the glass where the previosly applied 1000p is. You'll see (and feel) the pad lift the product up and re-deposit it. Now if you were actually using a pad loaded with product (putting on a second coat) this effect would be harder to catch. But try this quick experiment, and you'll see how easy it really is to disturb the base coat unless you are very gentle when applying added layers.

Hmmmm. Food for thought. Is this a risk even after waiting 24 hours, or waiting a week or more?

Does this happen with other products?

I had a similar experience with Klasse last week, when I washed the car and detailed it with Sonus Acrylic Spritz. Immediately afterward, I tried to apply a layer of polycharged Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it really felt as if the applicator was removing product, almost as if the Spritz either didn't fully dry (it was getting chilly last weekend) or that it started to dissove one of the previous coats of SG and/or Sonus that I had laid on a week earlier.

Generally, I find the polycharged Klasse REALLY easy to use, even after detailing with the Spritz. This was the first time I've had issue, perhaps due to cold weather...