Would you believe ANOTHER ONR thread???? - Page 3

lecchilo · 07-01-09, 07:16

I'm going to keep using it as a QD until I must use it for washing stuff... just too much fun to foam the whole car, rinse it, wash it, rinse it... in other words waste like 10 gal of water haha.

I do believe it works just as Supe described as I have used it as clay lube and QD and it definitely has a different feel to it than traditional soaps as well as QDs, but for me to fill 5 buckets with water/ONR solution and 5 more for rinsing is way too much work, at least for now. I can see myself using it on my car's paint when it's fairly clean after a week or so of driving in no or light rain, and I probably will start doing this very soon, but there's no way I'd even try cleaning wheel wells, tires, etc. with it...

Thats Fresh · 07-01-09, 08:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by bufferbarry

Im curious for someone who has never used onr. how do you clean wheels and such? like the wells tires?

i asked a similar question before for those who travel on roadtrips and have ONR. bringing gallons of distilled water is good to mix but how would you rinse off the tires? answers i had were to pre spray using APC or cleaners and then proceed to wash with separate mitt with ONR/water solution.

CocheseUGA · 07-01-09, 09:12

I use ONR for my wheels as well. Mine are in good condition, but a quick wipe does it.

For other cars, I've been using APC.

Scottwax · 07-01-09, 02:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by bufferbarry

Im curious for someone who has never used onr. how do you clean wheels and such? like the wells tires?

YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 2

Scottwax · 07-01-09, 02:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Less

Basically for me, it comes down to this:

For me, I think ONR is the opposite. It costs more than traditional soap. It takes longer to wash (and time is money if you do this professionally). You have to be even more careful than normal. The margin of error is smaller. So I think that money/swirl ratio is going the wrong way.

At $35 or so a gallon (I think that is what my local distributor is charging, I get 128 (give or take) washes. That is 27 cents per wash. It absolutely does not take longer to wash via ONR vs conventionally for me. Not even close. Once around the vehicle and I am done. No need to blow water out of emblems, crevices, etc either.

If I had to go back to washing cars the traditional way, using regular car wash soap and hoses, I'd find another line of work.

The polymers in ONR (or maybe something else in it) also add gloss and slickness regular car wash soap doesn't. Plus it keeps the paint beading. I have customers whose vehicles haven't been waxed in at least two years but have been regularly washed with ONR and they still bead and still have a just waxed look.

Apparently my customers are impressed too. I just detailed an S2000 for someone whose M5 I did about 6 or so months ago. Look what he had in his garage...

Quote:

If the same person washes 100 cars using ONR, and 100 cars using a traditional wash, I'll bet dollars for doughnuts that the ONR cars will have far more wash-induced marring than the traditionally washed cars.

I'll take that bet and I'll give you my business if I lose. I'll also give you my car and my road bike.

AGAuto · 07-01-09, 03:20

Scottwax (and other ONR users),

I've watched all your ONR videos and read A LOT about the different uses of ONR and how to do it, but I still don't understand one thing. How does ONR effectively clean DIRTY wheels/tires/wheel wells? What happens if you encounter a car with embedded brake dust, tar, or cooked on bugs?

I purchased ONR the other day and I'm looking forward to using it, but I'm still questioning its ability to truly clean the dirtiest parts of a car.

Scottwax · 07-01-09, 09:01

Sometimes with wheels or fenderwells you need to do just like you would with a traditional wash-use a dedicated wheel cleaner or degreaser. If the car has a lot of bugs stuck to it, I just lay a couple ONR soaked MF towels over the area and then wash the rest of the car. By the time I get to the bugs, they've softened up enough to wash away with ONR. FWIW, I've had issues using convetional wash soap and heavy bug build up and the suds tend to hide and make it harder to get all the crap off the paint.

If you've seen the video I made with the dirty black Cayenne, you can see how quickly ONR encapsulates and removes the dirt.

Regular brake dust build-up, even if it is heavy is easily removed with ONR. Next time I run across a really filthy wheel I'll either take pictures or video the process.

MichaelM · 07-02-09, 04:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGAuto

Scottwax (and other ONR users),

I've watched all your ONR videos and read A LOT about the different uses of ONR and how to do it, but I still don't understand one thing. How does ONR effectively clean DIRTY wheels/tires/wheel wells? What happens if you encounter a car with embedded brake dust, tar, or cooked on bugs?

ONR isn't a miracle wash chemical but more or less a replacement for car wash soap, gallons of water, run-off and drying time. If your car wash soap can't handle embedded brake dust, tar, etc then it is likely that ONR won't as well.

FWIW though I have noticed that ONR does make the removal of the lightest tar and bugs much easier. During our ONR wash process we will first de-bug the vehicle and hit the rough spots on lower panels with the ONR and a bug mitt, then proceed with the normal wash.

Less · 07-02-09, 06:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottwax

I'll take that bet and I'll give you my business if I lose. I'll also give you my car and my road bike.

So how many doughnuts would that be?

Boston Man · 07-02-09, 06:52

Would this work on cars with lots of debris (leaves, pine needles, etc etc) in cracks and crevices? I would think that you need the pressure of a hose to blast them out of the cracks

SuperBee364 · 07-02-09, 08:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Less

Basically for me, it comes down to this:

There is NO SUCH THING as a marring-free wash. I simply don't believe any product that makes such claims. I also don't believe anyone who says that he NEVER swirls a car when he washes it.

While it's true that certain products and techniques can minimize the potential for such defects. And it's also true that some people can produce marring free washes once, twice, ten times, or even one hundred times. But we're all human beings, and we make mistakes sometimes.

Certain products or techniques can compensate for SOME of those potential mistakes, but never ALL of them. And if you look at different wash products, in general, you'll see that as products are able to compensate for more mistakes, they become more expensive.

Just look at Microfiber. For decades, people used cotton or terry cloth towels to buff paint. And there is nothing to say that a careful detailer couldn't use those products exclusively with good results today. However, microfiber reduces the risk, and shrinks the margin of error involved in buffing. In order to do that, it takes more engineering, better materials, more care in manufacturing, higher quality standards, and therefore, more money. Same goes for wash mitts, brushes, or just about anything else. Granted there are always exceptions, but generally speaking, higher price usually equals higher quality.

For me, I think ONR is the opposite. It costs more than traditional soap. It takes longer to wash (and time is money if you do this professionally). You have to be even more careful than normal. The margin of error is smaller. So I think that money/swirl ratio is going the wrong way.

If it's 35 degrees outside, and for some reason, I absolutely MUST wash my car, ONR is the product of choice. But other than that, i just don't have a use for it.

If the same person washes 100 cars using ONR, and 100 cars using a traditional wash, I'll bet dollars for doughnuts that the ONR cars will have far more wash-induced marring than the traditionally washed cars.

I totally agree with the first bolded statement. I think that even the most gentle ONR wash in the world still produces some marring on a very, *very* small level. But eventually, after many washes, it would become visible. However, it would be so shallow in the clear coat, that a simple jeweling with something even as mild as FPII would get it out.

The second bolded statement, I dunno... How is the conventional wash done? Is it an Accumulator conventional wash? A Supe conventional wash? A two bucket? One? None? Makes all the difference in the world.

But I still think the only way to not mar paint is to not touch it.

lecchilo · 07-02-09, 09:08

For all those ONR users, I would really love to see a video of the wheel/wheel well cleaning as well as washing off dried on mud/dirt from after it rains and sits a few days... a hose or powerwash gets most of the stuff off fairly easily and I don't see ONR doing it effectively... I would assume the only way to do it would be as with bugs, by leaving the towel with ONR on top of the mud to loosen it and lift it, but that's a huge waste of time when you can just spray it off...

Scott, the video you have up shows the process well and obviously leaves a great surface, but that paint is very clean to begin with.

Don't get me wrong, I started using ONR recently on my M3 as it never really gets dirty, unless it rains hard and I let it sit for a day or two after a rain, so it's not like I'm bashing ONR, just thinking out loud that it has its limits...