M205 vs SIP

[itskrees]

After reading through all the raves and reviews of both polishes, I'm torn between which one to purchase. SIP has really become a crucial part in many detailers' arsenals. It has been formulated specifically to do amazing correction on the new Mercedes Ceramic Clear Coats along with the other hard clear coats out there. However, with its long work time, tendency to dust, and the fact that it typically needs to be followed up with a finishing polish (106FA/F or PO85), one can easily see how it is typically used in 2-3 step details.

On the other hand, with the new release of M205, people have found the product to be very pad dependent and has been praised for its ability to eliminate the "middle guy" in a 3-step detailing process (ie. going straight from compounding with M105 to finishing M205) or simply being used for a 1-stepper.

As I'm finally pulling together the final pieces of my product list, which product, in your guys opinion, would you recommend and why? Could M205 really bite as hard as SIP when it comes to the harder clear coats? If not, can M105 be the solution without sacrificing too much clear coat (ie. LC orange pad)?

As of right now, my limited budget only allows for one or the other. However, if you guys feel that SIP and M205 each have their own specific place in a detailer's arsenal, please provide any situations where this would serve true. I'm sure there are others interested in this as well, and would make for an excellent discussion.

-Kris

[Scottwax]

I haven't used SIP but I have used #205. So far, I like it a lot better with a DA than the rotary (holograms). Seems to have decent cut and an excellent finish. It doesn't like the sun though.

[Lumadar]

I say get the M205 (the easiest polish I have ever used, and the results are amazing), and then grab a 32 ounce bottle of M86. I found M86 to work very similarly to SIP as a middle polish, should you need it.

M86, like SIP, will offer moderate cut and still finish out LSP ready by most people's standards. The M86 is very cheap. (SIP is definitely not).



Scottwax, what were you working on when you got holograms with M205? I've only used it a few times so far, but haven't run into that issue yet. In fact, to test it out I did half of my red Focus with M205 via G110 and yellow Meguiar's pad, and the other half with M205 via rotary and Meg's yellow.

I found I got a little more bite via rotary, but both finished out flawless. I did one time buff dry a bit too long and added very minor marring, which I removed in 2 seconds with some additional M205 added to the pad. Aside from that, it's been over a month, and about 10 days worth of rain, and 3-4 washings later...still no holograms or swirls visible.

[Auto Concierge]

Budjet concerns will always make things difficult, SIP is just that super intensive with more cut. 205 relates more to PO85 as it is a finishing polish(me likes 205) as lumador said one of the easiest to use products out there at the moment.

[blk45]

Power Finish (203) would be more comparable to 205 than SIP would.

[itskrees]

So it seems to me thus far that SIP truely has its specific function in comparison to M205. What about M105 on an orange pad? Could this be used in replacement for SIP or would it still be a lot more aggressive?

[RaskyR1]

If you have M105 and M205 I see no need for SIP. You could always use M105 and a polishing pad to get less cut. I have yet to need anything in the middle of the two. M205 is VERY easy to use, both on the DA and rotary.

[JuneBug]

blk45 is right about - Power Finish (203) would be more comparable to 205 than SIP would.

I'm one of the few that bought M105, tried it a half dozen ways with my rotary and truely did not like it. I've since sold my rotary and switched to a Flex and I use Menzerna polishes only, I like SIP - use that on a PFW if it's bad - and follow up with FFII on a white pad and you're good to go. IP is good too, but it does have a little dust, FFII is great - perfect for soft paint like Honda's. I have Power Gloss too, but have not had a need for it yet.

[loudog2]

I don't use a compound(ie. #105) unless it is needed. I use SIP, but you can't compare 205 to SIP. Compare megs 205 to PF 203 or even 106FA

[Scottwax]

I say get the M205 (the easiest polish I have ever used, and the results are amazing), and then grab a 32 ounce bottle of M86. I found M86 to work very similarly to SIP as a middle polish, should you need it.

M86, like SIP, will offer moderate cut and still finish out LSP ready by most people's standards. The M86 is very cheap. (SIP is definitely not).



Scottwax, what were you working on when you got holograms with M205?

Nighthawk pearl Accord and a black Bentley with a yellow Meguiars polishing pad. Made the mistake of having the Accord in the sun on a 45 degree day and with the rotary, 205 pretty much welded itself to the paint.

The holograms weren't bad but it didn't finish down to what I'd consider LSP ready with a rotary. I like it a lot better with the DA. Actually did some pretty nice swirl removal on a saphire black BMW X5. One of these days if I ever get time, I'll post the pictures.

[Lumadar]

Nighthawk pearl Accord and a black Bentley with a yellow Meguiars polishing pad. Made the mistake of having the Accord in the sun on a 45 degree day and with the rotary, 205 pretty much welded itself to the paint.

The holograms weren't bad but it didn't finish down to what I'd consider LSP ready with a rotary. I like it a lot better with the DA. Actually did some pretty nice swirl removal on a saphire black BMW X5. One of these days if I ever get time, I'll post the pictures.

Thanks for sharing, that's good to know. I wonder if a possible downside to the product is that it is particular about working conditions? I think that temp is below the recommended range IIRC.

Can't imagine it was a whole lot of fun detailing in weather that cold, yikes!

[Scottwax]

The problem was the hood was in the full sun and even with 45 crappy degrees air temperature, the hood was hot to the touch.