Any fixes for rust in trunk lip?

[Thomas Dekany]

Subscribed!

[Phishy4]

Chad - Yea it came from florida and did a short stint in Ohio. I guess the trunk lid is the weak point on these, only spot on mine with rust.

I just scored a matching arctic silver trunk lid off an identical car in Idaho that was in a front end collision for $100 plus shipping, so I snagged it. No rust, clean seams and paint is good so I should be able to just swap the lock core out, bolt it on and go. I'll wait until next year probably to do it, or do it over the winter. Ron - with the "new" trunk lid I should get some of that cavity wax and fog it before install?

[Ron Ketcham]

Less cleanup if you do it before install.
For a trunk lid, you can use the aerosol can, as there are many access holes in the lid.
If you were to do the whole car, all it's cavatities, you would need the fogging gun, wands and a quart of the rust inhibitor.
Key is to make sure you spray the material into each access hole, turning the nozzle in all directions so it can fog onto all inner surfaces. Much the same as the application video shows using the gun and wands.
Due to were you live, I would personally mist a small amount on the outside of the flange as well.
To clean up any overspray (it's a wax compound, not paint, so no damage) use either the ValuGard New Car Prep or if not, use mineral spirits.
Grumpy

[Phishy4]

Cool. Is this the stuff? Aerosol Rust Inhibitor

[RaskyR1]

Chad - Yea it came from florida and did a short stint in Ohio. I guess the trunk lid is the weak point on these, only spot on mine with rust.

I just scored a matching arctic silver trunk lid off an identical car in Idaho that was in a front end collision for $100 plus shipping, so I snagged it. No rust, clean seams and paint is good so I should be able to just swap the lock core out, bolt it on and go. I'll wait until next year probably to do it, or do it over the winter. Ron - with the "new" trunk lid I should get some of that cavity wax and fog it before install?

Nice! Hopefully the color is spot on too.

[Ron Ketcham]

Cool. Is this the stuff? Aerosol Rust Inhibitor

Yup, and through the end of the month, mention code T10K and Beth is giving 10% off.
That discount applies to everything in the ValuGard online store.
If you got questions, just call and talk to her.
Grumpy

[Accumulator]

..Key is to make sure you spray the material into each access hole, turning the nozzle in all directions so it can fog onto all inner surfaces...

Yeah, watch that you don't miss any spots or those areas (they'd be like little "pockets" in between the areas that are coated) can retain moisture/etc. and lead to the same old problem. DIYing rust inhibitors is one of those things where you really do need to, uhm....avoid making mistakes. Not all *that* hard to get it right, but it's pretty easy to get it wrong.

[gpshumway]

I realize I'm bumping an old thread here, but It's good to see another wax-based anti-corrosion treatment available in aerosol cans. I've been using Wurth Cavity Protection Spray for quite a few years on my cars and it seems to work well. I re-apply it every fall, which may be overkill given Ron's posts.

The Valu-gard stuff is certainly less expensive (about half), the Wurth stuff is about $20/can either directly from Wurth USA or Goodspeed motoring.

Any thoughts on switching to the Valu-gard product once the Wurth product has been used? I might give it a shot next fall.

Edit:
I should say I use the Wurth stuff for more than body cavities. Principally suspension components and subframes where it gets removed more easily with use. It does a great job on wheel hubs and brake rotors preventing rust. Anybody who's had to change a rusted-on flat tire on a cold, slushy Minnesota winter day will understand why I do this.

[Accumulator]

gpshumway-Welcome to Autopia!

I've used both and wouldn't expect any undesirable interaction between the existing Wurth and the ValuGard stuff.

BUT...if the Wurth is already covering/sealing/protecting the areas in question, I don't see any point in applying *anything* more on top of it. AFAIK the Wurth doesn't degrade/dissipate/"go away" so IMO you're just adding more and more stuff on top of the somewhat minimal amount of it actually required to prevent corrosion.

Plus, IMO too much can be just as bad as not enough it it results in some kind of build up that just might retain water/ect., exactly the sort of thing you're trying to head off.

BTW, I prefer Amsoil's Heavy Duty Metal Protector for hardware that will be disassembled. Lighter and "cleaner" product that's better suited to that kind of application. You mentioned changing a flat in winter, and this is the stuff I use to make sure the under-vehicle spare's mounting hardware stays in good shape.

For subframes/etc. I like Eastwood's Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, which dries very clean and dry, ending up almost like a satin/matte black paint.

Oh, and if you haven't tried it, Wurth's Rost Off is another good metal treatment spray to have on the shelf.

Heh heh, guess I have a pretty wide assortment of rust-prevention products!

[gpshumway]

In the body cavities, I have little reason to re-apply frequently (though I probably will do so every few years). It's on the more "active" surfaces of the undercarriage where I may switch to the ValuGard, things like a-arms and steering knuckles. I haven't used Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, thought I've used their coroless and chassis black paint products with success in the past, I'll check it out.

I have a can of HDMP which I haven't cracked open yet. I was going to use it in place of the Boeshield T9 I've been using on exposed aluminum surfaces primarily in the engine bay. Boeshield is nice and "clean", but less persistent than the Wurth product. Brake heat makes it go away really fast, maybe the Amsoil product will prove better on brakes.

[Accumulator]

In the body cavities, I have little reason to re-apply frequently (though I probably will do so every few years). It's on the more "active" surfaces of the undercarriage where I may switch to the ValuGard, things like a-arms and steering knuckles. I haven't used Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, thought I've used their coroless and chassis black paint products with success in the past, I'll check it out. ..

The coroless is now called Rust Encapsulator.

The Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust is what I'd use for those A-arms/etc. that you don't want to bother "doing right" (scare-quotes intentional as the BHDAR works fine and looks like paint). Much as I like the ValuGard stuff, I wouldn't use it for those areas.

I have a can of HDMP which I haven't cracked open yet. I was going to use it in place of the Boeshield T9 I've been using on exposed aluminum surfaces primarily in the engine bay. Boeshield is nice and "clean", but less persistent than the Wurth product. Brake heat makes it go away really fast, maybe the Amsoil product will prove better on brakes.

I've never used it on brakes, nor on areas that show. Never tried the Bioshield, sounds like it might be a little cleaner. If you try the HDMP, I'd appreciate hearing how it compares to the Bioshield.

FWIW, I treated the under-vehicle spare mounting hardware on the Tahoe with the HDMP years ago. Even though I give it a cursory cleaning with APC/etc. at every wash, the HSMP is still holding on and preventing corrosion.

What brake components are you thinking about for this sort of treatment?

[gpshumway]

The Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust is what I'd use for those A-arms/etc. that you don't want to bother "doing right" (scare-quotes intentional as the BHDAR works fine and looks like paint). Much as I like the ValuGard stuff, I wouldn't use it for those areas.

Interesting, though I may have to clean the Wurth BCS off before trying the Eastwood stuff. Lots of good products out there, it's too hard to know them all. The WURTH BCS seems to last a winter on most exterior surfaces, though it's gone from the most active surfaces by the spring.

I've never used it on brakes, nor on areas that show. Never tried the Bioshield, sounds like it might be a little cleaner. If you try the HDMP, I'd appreciate hearing how it compares to the Bioshield.

I'm not trying to be pedantic, but it's Boeshield as in Boeing, not Bio as in Biological. It was originally developed by Boeing to protect exposed surfaces of airplanes until the customer could paint them. I've used it for years as a chain lube for my road bike. It works well under the hood on unprotected aluminum, but it doesn't seem to stand up to heat as well as the Wurth BCS. Amsoil HDMP advertises similar properties, so I ordered a can to try with my last Amsoil order. I'll do my best to remember to report back after using the HDMP. I'll probably try it as a chain lube next time I tune my bike as well.

Boeshield Website

FWIW, I treated the under-vehicle spare mounting hardware on the Tahoe with the HDMP years ago. Even though I give it a cursory cleaning with APC/etc. at every wash, the HSMP is still holding on and preventing corrosion.

What brake components are you thinking about for this sort of treatment?

Good to hear the HDMP lasts a long time on what I assume is uncoated hardware, maybe I'll just try it and skip a new order of ValuGuard or Wurth BCS.

I use Wurth BCS on the brake rotor/hubs of my WRX to prevent corrosion. The wheel mounting surface and the "tophat" part of the rotors are coated with what I believe to be manganese phosphate. Treating these surfaces with BCS prevents corrosion and leaves a reasonably attractive dark-brown/black finish as long as I re-do it relatively frequently. I use a light coating in the summer which stays black, the heavier winter coating ends up a little more brown. The thick coating lasts pretty easily through a winter, but a track day or autocross will kill a thick coating pretty fast and leave a stink. I use a fresh spray of BCS each time I rotate the wheels to dissolve the old waxy coating and leave a fresh layer. I believe some treatment like this to be essential in keeping the wheel mounting surface flat and free of corrosion. I use two sets of wheels (winter + summer) and they have slightly different hub configurations, any corrosion would cause them to no longer sit flat on the hub face.

The other area I use it on is the central vents (vented rotors). These surfaces seem to lack the phosphate coating, being simple black cast iron. The BCS doesn't work quite as well on these surfaces, though mine look much better after six MN winters than most. This seems to be confirmed by BCS's somewhat poor performance on the steering knuckles which are also black cast iron. I'm guessing the heat in the vents is much greater than at the hub and that's the reason for poor performance. Maybe Eastwood HDAR would work better on the knuckles, I'll give it a try.

I formerly used Boeshield on the brakes/hubs on other cars, but the brake heat seemed to kill it on the tophat area. It worked fine on the wheel mounting surface/hub. Those cars didn't have mag phosphate on the hubs though, so I don't know exactly how much better BCS is. My Honda Civic is relatively new and lacking the mag phosphate, so we'll see how the BCS does on those rotors in a couple of years.

I should probably fill in my signature with the cars I own...