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Old 04-13-07, 11:13   #4 (permalink)
Grouse
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Grouse is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,611
Re: 99 Cosmo black m3

So let me start at the begining.

The wash was simple.

Foam gun cg super suds II
P21s auto wash on tires and wheel wells along with wipe down scrub of all the plastic trim. The dealer had waxed that trim at 1 bazillion rpm. :S
P21 wheel gel on the wheels.

After the wash I started the Paint depth readings. I could not get consistent readings. The build up of sticky tree sap and gunk. I would get readings of 300+ and then a second reading of less than 100. I clayed a section and was able to get decent readings.

So i decided to clay first. I spent about two hours claying about 6 sqft. The clay was not taking the pitch/sap off.

The next morning i applied a bit of solvent to the pitch/sap and got the edge removed from it. Claying took the better part of 1 man hour after that. From there you can see the paint readings i was getting.

The average was less than 120 with some areas being 160-170. After close inspection i was able to find tell tale traces of wet sanding the car. I am guessing the water marking on the rear deck lid was over most of the car. The dealer wet sanded the snot out of it, then aggressively buffed it to get it sold. With that i proceeded fairly carefully. I was not able to really remove more than 70-75% of the marring.

2 layers of FMJ
1 layer of 50/50 wax.

FWIW i tried the first layer of fmj using poly charger and spent over an hour getting all the streaks and smears off. I will not be using it again with FMJ. I do like poly charger with JWP. and JWAJ but that is h20 version of poly.
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