Autopia.org - View Single Post

Accumulator · 07-21-06, 10:15

Joshua312- I haven't tried those pads, but maybe I can help a bit with the first 2 Qs.

Yeah, prime the pads well, distribute the polish (or wax) on them as evenly as you can. Spread the polish a bit on the panel and then turn the machine on.

I like to use figure-8 motions where there's no pause at the end of a stroke like you get with side-to-side motions. It's not like I *always* work it that way, but it can be good practice for future rotary use. So even though it's not necessary with the Cyclo, I'd try to always keep it moving (learn the technique and build the muscle memory now with a safe machine, you'll be glad you did if/when you get a rotary).

Feel free to apply some pressure (within reason). It won't bog down and jiggle like the PC will and it won't burn paint unless you do something utterly bizarre that I can't imagine.

Try using it upside down (handle pointing towards ceiling, pads down below) on the sides and experiment with holding it with only one hand (I like to hold it by the top handle for aggressive work and by the "regular" handle for milder jobs like buffing off LSP with MF bonnets.

Note that it will dry/cake around the edges, especially if you do a lot of polishing without cleaning the pads, so watch for that (inspect them regularly) and add product as needed. You can clean the caked/dried polish by wiping (MF or terry towel, I use one wet with #34) or brushing with a toothbrush, or you can take the pads off and wash them. It's safe to spin-dry the pads; they won't fly off like they can with a PC.

The speed is about the same as the PC's 3-4 (actual OPMs of the Cyclo are, IIRC, around 3000) but it seems a lot faster and more aggressive, perhaps because of a difference in stroke or because the Cyclo doesn't bog down

You're on the right track though, treat it like a PC on speed 6.

07-21-06, 10:15	#2 (permalink)
Accumulator Practical Perfectionist Accumulator is offline Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: NE Ohio Posts: 20,805	Joshua312- I haven't tried those pads, but maybe I can help a bit with the first 2 Qs. Yeah, prime the pads well, distribute the polish (or wax) on them as evenly as you can. Spread the polish a bit on the panel and then turn the machine on. I like to use figure-8 motions where there's no pause at the end of a stroke like you get with side-to-side motions. It's not like I always work it that way, but it can be good practice for future rotary use. So even though it's not necessary with the Cyclo, I'd try to always keep it moving (learn the technique and build the muscle memory now with a safe machine, you'll be glad you did if/when you get a rotary). Feel free to apply some pressure (within reason). It won't bog down and jiggle like the PC will and it won't burn paint unless you do something utterly bizarre that I can't imagine. Try using it upside down (handle pointing towards ceiling, pads down below) on the sides and experiment with holding it with only one hand (I like to hold it by the top handle for aggressive work and by the "regular" handle for milder jobs like buffing off LSP with MF bonnets. Note that it will dry/cake around the edges, especially if you do a lot of polishing without cleaning the pads, so watch for that (inspect them regularly) and add product as needed. You can clean the caked/dried polish by wiping (MF or terry towel, I use one wet with #34) or brushing with a toothbrush, or you can take the pads off and wash them. It's safe to spin-dry the pads; they won't fly off like they can with a PC. The speed is about the same as the PC's 3-4 (actual OPMs of the Cyclo are, IIRC, around 3000) but it seems a lot faster and more aggressive, perhaps because of a difference in stroke or because the Cyclo doesn't bog down You're on the right track though, treat it like a PC on speed 6.