In theory, you have the right idea, there's a catch for the layman however;
Shaker cans of clear (and general 2k automotive clears for that matter) do not "melt-in" and blend with the exisiting oem clear, but rather sit on top of it. You will always have an edge or periphery of the new layer of paint no matter how well you wetsand, buff and feather it down. You will always see a "ring" or outline of the clear on top. To spray that much clear around a single scratch and compound away the rest, except for in THAT scratch, would be near impossible, and not practical, unfortunately. The result would be more or less the same as brushing some touch-up clear into the scracth to begin with then compounding.
Body shops DO have a special "cut-in " blending clear for spot work, but it requires special techniques and steps, plus some skill, and the custom engineered melt -in clear ( really a urethane blending solvent additive), to achieve, and it's not widely done. They will ALWAYS prefer to spot color (basecoat) in and then reclear the entire panel. That's the best way to get superior results at least.
These blending additives don't cross over to the DIY shaker can market, because of $$$ and the special skills and techniques required, not to mention shaker cans of clear aren't catalyzed like body shop paint, for curing.
Great idea, (in theory) though.
