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Old 07-08-03, 04:48   #4 (permalink)
Jngrbrdman
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DACP may be a bit of overkill. It depends on the damage you are trying to remove. I used it on a 2003 350Z last week and it wasn't strong enough in some areas. I do things a bit different from other people do them. I like to use the product that I think would be the most effective first and then work my way down to the less abrasive products. I know that a lot of people do it the other way, but I do it my way to save time and product. It has worked so far. DACP has always been a good product to start out with. I've never felt that it was too agressive for the circumstances at all. If nothing else, it wasn't strong enough in some cases. I usually follow it up with something like #9 and that does the trick. 3M SMR is always a good one to follow up with. Those both have some fillers in them that make the car look tons better.

I'm too much of a chicken to use a rotary. I'm just a PC boy. Someday I'll move up the ladder but I'll have to run into something that a PC is just plain ineffective on. I don't mind taking the extra time that using a PC instead of a rotary may require. I've never been afraid of damaging the car with the PC. Using a rotary is something that guys like me with adult ADD shouldn't be doing. I wouldn't use a rotary or a PC on plastic bumpers though. Especially with a product like DACP. If you are going to tape off your car then you should tape off everything that you don't want to polish. Usually that just includes the window trim, badges, and maybe the seams of the car. Taping takes too much time for me so I'm just careful around those edges and wipe off product right away if I get any on a surface I don't want it on. Polishes and compounds are hell to get out of textured bumpers and plastic, so avoid those surfaces as best you can. Just be careful and go slow.

3M 5937 machine glaze is a product I haven't used so I'm afraid I won't be much help there. I'm sure the answer is out there somewhere.
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