Thread: Rotary Usage
View Single Post

Old 11-21-02, 12:57   #49 (permalink)
Masterfinish
Older & Wiser
 
Masterfinish is offline
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Denver
Posts: 46
Masterfinish is on a distinguished road
Polishing 101

To attempt to teach buffing techniques by writing would most likely never work. Nothing like hands on will ever truly show a person how to use a high speed polisher. I can tell you that lower speeds help to reduce swirling, the reason being the amount of heat build up. The new clear coats and how to polish them is quite a science that old school detailers have a hard time accepting. Fact one is that heating the surface over 110 to 115 degrees with the friction of a spinning polishing pad can permanently damage the surface. A clouding affect can show up from over heating, thus the reason tyo keep the polisher moving slowly but steadily. The use of a digital infrared thermometer is a good tool to use when learning and can be a valuable sales tool. Just aim the unit at the surface and you get instant acurate readings to see how much heat is being created. Learning when to use twisted wool, synthetic/wool blend finishing pads and how and when to use foam cutting, polishing and finishing pads all come into play. The fact that you mentioned being able to practice on junk cars is a great way to learn. Reading your posts regarding skipping makes me think that because you could be polishing dirty, oxidized paint that you are getting a very quick build up of material on the fibers of your plishing pad. You need to spur it our thoroughly and often. Let the chemical do the work, do not push for more cutting power. If need be change to different levels of abrasive polishes. The pad and polisher is to make the work quicker and give a more evenly finished surface than you can do by hand. Working small areas, no more than 2 ft by 2 ft allows you to effectively work the area intended without drying to fast. Only apply product to the area you are ready to polish, never spreading polish out way ahead of where your working. That can cause permanent staining due to the solvents most polishes use as part of the cleaning chemical. The new clear coats have a UV (ultra violet) protection built into the top surface. The removal of more than .003 to .004 mils is the maximum depth a clear coat can be cut into. Any more reduces the UV protection which will cause sun damage to the base in a matter of months depending on the amount of sun the vehicle is exposed to. The only way to accurately tell how much material has been removed is to use a electronic digital paint thickness guage which costs several hundred dollars depending of the supplier. The thermometer can be found at any NAPA auto parts store for approx. $99.00. Due to the liabilty that comes with selling your services as a professional it is imperative that you have the proper equipment, training and knowledge before you accept a customers high dollar car and state that you will polish it safely and swirl free. This is a hugh subject and I'd be happy to answer specifics. With over 31 years experience and still learing everyday, I may be able to help.
Tom at Masterfinish
__________________
32 Years and Learning Every Day.
  Reply With Quote