[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by bufferbarry

.from my understanding the uv coating goes throughout the whole clear. maybe im wrong here, but that what i was always told.

As best I recall, the guys at http://www.autoint.com (specifically Ron Ketchum) say that the UV protection comes from something like the top 40% or so of the clear. Since they work with the manufacturers so much I figure I'll go by what they say.

I've seen a surprising amount of cc failure on heavily-corrected cars so I'm kinda nervous about it when it comes to *my* rides Heh heh, especially after messing up my M3 trying to work Autopian-style miracles on it Wish I could get the thin clear issue to show up in pics so I could show you what I'm talking about; I *barely* got all the marring out too, no wasted clear

I'm so paranoid about this that I ETG every used car I look at and I won't touch anything that's already been thinned a lot. I recently passed on a *NICE* P71 Crown Vic because it read <3.5 mils in so many places, the seller couldn't believe it (he thought his wetsand/buff job would sell the car..I woulda probably bought it with the scratches still in).

nothing like sanding something as thin as a sheet of notebook paper huh!

Heh heh, I really do just *love* the way you're able to work within those kind of tolerences...The way you control aggressive paper is so [darn] impressive

Ya know, that "it's so thin to begin with" thing is one reason why I often think that people here who are really *hammering* their paint would be better off wetsanding it. With really aggressive compounding stuff happens fast and it's not always easy to know what's going on under that spinning pad, but with a piece of sandpaper in your hand you should have things under pretty good control.

Heh heh, people gotta remember that they'll be taking off more clear when you remove those sanding marks, and that's why I tell newbies to quit before they think they oughta.