Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottwax
Cutting it with Optimum Polish (about 20%) dramatically will increase the polishing time too. I can get 2-3 minutes of polishing if needed out of that combo. Of course, water is free...  |
I have tried that, and OC, and you are right in that they can both add time as well.
I did find the cut slightly reduced, though, albeit not by much. (It might be over lubricating?)
As for Presidential's question, heh, it's honestly very hard to explain, but I'll try.
I start by very quickly spreading the product over the area I am going to work by applying it to the pad, and then using quick arm motions (ie: NOT high rotary speeds) covering the entire area I will buff.
Then I go back and slowly work the area in a methodical manner one time over. the key for this to work is to use the rotary at lower speeds, between 1,000 and 1,100~ RPMS. If you move quickly over an area that has
M105 spread over it and do not actually stay long enough to buff it out, it can "glaze" it over, turning it incredibly hard and making it very difficult to remove with a towel OR the buffer with subsequent passes.
So again, the technique is a little bit tricky and takes practice, but it works.
Anyway, so then I go back over the area and make my passes slightly faster, as a medium arm speed using slightly less pressure than the first pass (normal pressure on pass 1).
At this point you will likely notice the product beginning to disappear from the paint surface, and you can sometimes go back for a third and final pass, using nothing but the weight of the machine for pressure. I work with medium to quick arm speed, and sometimes will quickly move the buffer side to side over spots where the
M105 is still thick. (You will learn to spot when it gets "glazed" into place vs when it can be buffed off).
I continue doing that over the entire area and when done there is nothing but an extremely fine and thin film (if that) left at all on the paint.
Occasionally you may need to stop and add a spritz of distilled water at random points and "restart" the process to an extent, but the better you get at it the less this will be needed.
It is using this process that I have been able to finish out 100% with
M105 only on *some* cars. Others require additional passes, but in some cases M105 will buff out LSP ready.
Here's some pictures of what the technique yielded when using a Makita with a 4 inch light orange polishing pad, M105, and nothing else. (I had the Jeep for 3 days and was able to leave it in the sun a LOT to make sure the defects were gone before applying any wax. I also re-washed it, and tested with alcohol wipes).
