Quote:
Originally Posted by The Edge  In 1994 when we launched the Edge system, there were only two choices of foam basically. Yellow for cutting and Grey for polishing. We could not figure out why you would want to use the most abrasive pad for every job so we invented and launched a 5 colored texture foam line which was soon copied by all our competitors. When we decided to enter the wool pad business we saw the same dilema that the only pads offered were White 100% wool twisted for cutting and a Yellow Blended wool/acrylic for polishing. We then launched the first wool pad line to offer 5 colored textures and our wool matched our foam in color and texture. You want and need the ability to choose the right pad for the job without being forced to use the most abrasive pad. You actually want to start with the least abrasive combination of pad and chemical to see if you get the right results first before reaching for the more abrasive combo and removing more paint or causing damage.
Hope this little history helps.
Aaron |
This is not an entirely true portrait of history. This maybe based off your experiences at the time. Several other companies had many, many more pads in wool and foam then what you stated. Buff and Shine, Lake Country, Schlegel, and 3M just to name a few. In foam, Buff and Shine and Lake Country had a variety of PPI (Pores Per Inch)options and colors available. In wool compounding you had 100% wool pads in 4ply twist to 1ply twist. For light compounding and heavy polishing there were wool blends from 4ply twist to a standard wool pads. Finishing pads were from wool blends to 100% wool and even sheep skin pads that had the hide visible on the backside. All these pads were also avaible in a variety of colors. The original purpose for having different colors in wool was so that in detail shops they could differentiate which pads, had which products on the pads.
I do agree not every paint is the same. Every car has been exposed to different environments and that should always be takin into consideration. There is always an extreme case or special circumstance, from cars with horrible paint to the garage kept show car that has never had anything other than a hand polish and waxing. For the "average" or "newer" car a compounding pad is not needed, since you are only polishing the clear coat and never make it to the actual paint. In that circumstance you would clay the car first then move to a pad like the Buff and Shine 7503GY (polishing pad) or 7510G (Finishing pad) depending on the condition of the clear after claying. Use these with a mild cleaner/polish. As with any pad keep the pad flat, lower rpms, and do not burn the pain with too much heat.
For those that have never used a Buff and Shine pad, I highly recommend it. They make their pads for the professional detail market and car wash market. 70-80% of their pads are private labeled and sold under other names. I can't say enough for their products.
Danny