Quote:
Originally Posted by RedlineIRL  .. I'm just having the lower half of the bumper redome since that's where the damage is. The painter also suggested that this would be the best approach since color mathing to the original top half would not be a problem. What they are going to do is strip some of the lower areas where the paint has spider webbed, prime, and then respray and blend those areas. They are then going to wetsand the entire bumper and reclear the whole thing. Does this sound like a typical process for a quality durable finish? |
I don't know enough about this stuff to say if that's an OK approach or not, but it's not the way either of my guys would do it; they'd redo the whole bumpercover (and they'd do it off the car, which your guys might be planning to do anyhow...I'd sure insist on *that*).
Some clears work a *LOT* better/worse when it comes to "melting into" the existing clear on jobs like this, so I sure hope they use the right stuff.
I can't comment on the Sikkens, simply don't know about it
FWIW I have my spot-ins (and most of my other paintwork too) done with Spiess-Hecker, which seems to work much better than the paints they'd used previously (nice and hard, good color/texture match, smooth and seamless blends into existing paintwork).
FWIW, one reason why I'm so adamant about having plastic parts painted off-the-car is the issue of "bridging"- the gaps between the plastic parts and the body of the car proper are problematic. You don't want paint across these gaps as it'll crack/etc. later. You can't mask them either because of the way the paint will end up with an "open edge" right where you need durability. When cars are built, the plastic parts are painted before they go on the car, and that's the way it needs to be done when aftermarket paintwork is performed. Of course this is just IMO (and that of my painters) and other people undoubtedly see/do things differently.